Manur
Manur cheese is made in Serbia from either cow's or ewe's milk. The milk is heated to boiling and then cooled until the fingers can be held in it. A mixture of buttermilk, fresh whey, and rennet is added. The curd is lifted from the whey in a cloth and drained, and then is kneaded, salted lightly, and dried.
Maquée
Maquée, known also as Fromage Mou, is a soft, brick-shaped cheese made from cow's milk in Belgium.
Marches
Marches is a hard, Pecorino (ewe's-milk) cheese made in Tuscany, Italy. The Province of Tuscany borders on the Province of Marche, for which this cheese is named.
Marienhofer
Marienhofer is a Limburger-type cheese made in Marienhof-Pichlern, Carinthia (Kärnten), Austria. Enough fat is removed from the evening milk so that when it is mixed with the whole morning milk the mixture will have about 75 percent of the normal fat content. The cheeses are about 4⅓ inches square and about 1½ inches thick, and they weigh a pound or slightly more. They are wrapped in tinfoil.
Märkisch Hand
Märkisch Hand cheese is made by the usual Hand-cheese process, except that after the curd is salted it is put into a linen sack and is pressed heavily. It is then removed from the press and cut into oblong pieces, and these are dried and cured in the same way as the usual Hand cheese.
Marolles
Marolles (or Maroilles) is a soft, cow's-milk cheese similar to Pont l'Évêque and Livarot. It is made in numerous villages in the Departments of Aisne and Nord, France. The details of manufacture differ in the different villages, the cheeses are various shapes and sizes, and they are known by different local names. For example, Marolles (made at Marolles) is 6 inches square and 2 inches thick; Marolles (made at St. Aubin) is 5 inches square and 3 inches thick; Larron is about 2¼ inches square and 1½ inches thick; Tulle de Flandre is about twice as large as Larron; Dauphin is shaped like a half moon and contains herbs; and Boulette is pear-shaped and sometimes contains some buttermilk.
Fresh, whole milk is recommended, although skim milk or partly skimmed milk is often used. The milk is set with rennet at a temperature of about 75° F., and the coagulation period varies from 1 to 4 hours. The curd is put into boxes with perforated bottoms, and the whey drains from the curd for 1 to 2 hours. Then the curd is transferred to forms, 5 or 6 inches square and 3 or 4 inches deep. The cheeses in the forms are turned frequently. When they are firm, they are removed from the forms, salted on the surface, and taken to the curing cellar. They are cured for 3 to 5 months, and they are washed frequently with salty water while curing, to prevent the growth of molds.
Analysis (whole-milk Marolles): Moisture, 40 percent; fat, 30 percent; and protein, 20 percent.
Mascarpone
Mascarpone is a soft, cream cheese that is made in Lombardy, Italy, during the winter. It is like fresh Ricotta in consistency and has a mildly acid, buttery flavor. It is cylindrical, from 2 to 2½ inches in diameter and about 2⅓ inches thick, and weighs about 4 ounces. Cream is heated to about 195° F., and dilute acetic acid, vinegar, tartaric acid, or lemon juice is stirred in. The curd is drained in a bag and then is placed in muslin-lined forms. After additional draining for a day, the cheese is removed from the forms. It may be salted, and it is packaged. It is eaten while fresh. The yield is 40 to 55 pounds of cheese per 100 pounds of cream.
Mecklenburg Skim
Mecklenburg Skim, a hard, skim-milk cheese, was first made in northern Germany in the Province of Mecklenburg, for which it is named. The milk is placed in a copper kettle and is warmed with steam. It is colored with saffron, and enough rennet is added to coagulate the milk in 30 minutes. The curd is broken into particles about the size of peas and is stirred while being heated slowly to about 92° F. Then the curd is dipped with a cloth and placed in hoops. It is pressed for a day with gradually increasing pressure, until the final pressure is about 15 times the weight of the cheese. The cheese is placed in a drying room at a temperature of about 70°, where it is held until the rind has formed. Salt is sprinkled and rubbed on the surface. The cheese is cured at a temperature of approximately 60° and a relative humidity of 85 to 90 percent.
Melun
Melun, or Brie de Melun, is a French cheese of the Brie type, but Melun usually has a somewhat firmer curd and a sharper flavor than Brie. It is the size of a small Brie.
Mesitra
Mesitra is a soft, ewe's-milk cheese made in the Crimea. Fresh milk is set with rennet in a copper kettle. The curd is cut, then is heated over a slow fire. The curd is dipped when it is comparatively soft, and it is pressed lightly. The cheese often is not salted, and it is eaten while fresh.
Mignot
Mignot, which has been made in the Department of Calvados, France, for more than 120 years, is a soft cheese that resembles Pont l'Évêque and Livarot. It may be either cylindrical or cubical in shape. There are two types of Mignot: (1) White, which is a fresh cheese and is made from April to September; and (2) passé, which is a ripened cheese and is made the rest of the year.
Milano
Milano or Stracchino di Milano, which is known also as Fresco and Quardo and, when made in the fall, as Stracchino Quartirolo, is a soft, sweet, fast-ripening table cheese made in Lombardy, Italy. It is classed in the group with Crescenza, and is similar to Bel Paese. It is square, from 1½ to 2¾ inches thick, and weighs between 3 and 6½ pounds. It is colored yellow, has a thin rind, and may be enclosed in muslin.
The milk is curdled with rennet extract at a temperature of 86° to 91° F. in 35 to 45 minutes. The curd is cut into pieces the size of almonds. After the curd settles, it is gathered in a cloth and hung up to drain; then it is put into forms, pressed lightly, and salted after 2 or 3 days. It is cured at a temperature of 60° to 65°. It is ready to eat after curing for about 20 days and will not keep much longer than 60 days.
Analysis: Moisture, 40 to 50 percent; casein, about 20 percent; fat, 30 percent or more.
Mintzitra
Mintzitra is a soft cheese made in Macedonia from ewe's milk.
Mitzithra
Mitzithra cheese, which also is called "Pot" cheese, is made by shepherds in the vicinity of Athens, Greece, from the whey which is a byproduct of Feta cheese. It is made under primitive conditions, and the method of making is simple. The whey and fresh milk, usually ewe's milk, are mixed in a vat, and curdled. After a curdling period of 4 or 5 days, the whey is removed and the residual curd is collected, drained, and pressed. The fresh cheese is sold by the shepherds to merchants, for resale in Greece and for export, chiefly to Greek colonies.
Modena
Modena and Monte are the names of some Parmesan-type cheeses (that contain less fat than Parmesan) which were made in the United States during World War II.
Moliterno
Moliterno, a plastic-curd (pasta filata) cheese, was made originally in the Departments of Calabria and Lucania and now is made also in the Province of Basilicata, Italy. It is said to be similar to Cotronese. When made from ewe's milk only, it is called Pecorino Moliterno. It is made by much the same process as Caciocavallo and other plastic-curd cheeses.
Moncenisio
Moncenisio is a blue-mold, Gorgonzola-type cheese made in Italy.
Mondseer Schachtelkäse
Mondseer Schachtelkäse, a Münster-type cheese that is popular in Austria, is made from either whole or partly skimmed milk. It has a somewhat sharp, acid flavor, similar to mild Limburger. The cheeses are about 6 inches in diameter and 2 inches thick, and weigh about 2¼ pounds. One whole-milk cheese of this type is called Mondseer Schlosskäse.
The milk is set with rennet at a temperature of about 86° F. The curd is cut coarsely an hour later or, if firmer curd is desired, the coagulation period may be as long as 3 hours. When the curd has settled, the whey is drained off and the curd is transferred to cylindrical, perforated, cloth-lined forms; it is turned frequently for a period of several hours. Then the cheeses are removed from the forms and dried for 3 or 4 days. When dry, they are salted on the surface and transferred to a cool, moist cellar where they are cured for 3 to 6 weeks. While curing, they are washed every few days with warm water or warm, salty water; and a reddish-yellow smear develops on the surface. The cheeses are wrapped separately, and they are shipped in wooden containers called schachteln.
Monostorer
Monostorer is a ewe's-milk cheese that is made in Transylvania, Rumania. Fresh milk is set with rennet at a temperature of 86° to 88° F. The curd is broken by hand, the whey is drained and pressed out, and the curd is crumbled into pieces and salted. Then it is sprinkled with warm water, subdivided, and mixed, after which it is pressed strongly by hand and again crumbled. The curd is placed in cloth-lined forms, about 8 inches long, 4 inches wide, and 2 inches deep, and pressed for 8 to 10 hours. The cheeses are removed from the forms, salted in brine for 2 days, and cured for 8 to 10 weeks. They are washed regularly with salty water while curing. About 15 pounds of cheese is obtained from 100 pounds of milk.
Montasio
Montasio, a hard cheese similar to Fontina and Bitto, was first made in Friuli, Italy (formerly Friaul, Austria). The annual output in Friuli is large, and production has spread to nearby areas, Montasio is made usually of a mixture of cow's and goat's milk, but in some places only ewe's milk is used.
Either whole or partly skimmed milk is heated in a kettle to 95° F., and enough rennet is added to coagulate the milk in 30 to 40 minutes. The curd is cut very carefully to the size of peas and is heated gradually (in about 30 minutes) to a temperature of 120°. Then heating is stopped, but the curd is stirred for another 30 to 40 minutes. Some of the whey is dipped from the kettle, and a cloth is used to remove the curd. The cheese is pressed for 24 hours, during which time it is turned frequently. From 2½ to 3 percent of salt is added over a period of about a month. After salting is completed, the cheese is taken to a well-ventilated room to dry. While drying, it is turned frequently and rubbed to keep the surface free of mold. When dry it is scraped carefully and is then taken to the curing cellar, where it is rubbed frequently with a coarse cloth. When the rind has become firm, olive oil usually is applied. Sometimes the rind is blackened with soot.
The fresh cheese is almost white. The cured cheese is yellow and granular and has a sharp taste and characteristic aroma. It is usually cured for 3 to 12 months, but may be cured longer. It is eaten as a table cheese when made from whole milk and not fully cured; it is grated for use as a condiment when made from partly skimmed milk and fully matured.
Montavoner
Montavoner is a sour-milk cheese made in Austria. Dried herbs (Achillea moschata and A. atrata) are added to the curd during the making process.
Mont Cenis
Mont Cenis, a hard, blue-mold cheese that resembles Gex and Septmoncel, is made in the region of Mont Cenis in southeastern France, usually from a mixture of cow's, ewe's, and goat's milk. It is about 18 inches in diameter, 6 or 8 inches thick, and weighs about 25 pounds.
Primitive methods of cheesemaking are used in making Mont Cenis. Evening milk usually is skimmed and added to morning milk. The mixture is set with rennet at a temperature of about 85° F. When the milk has coagulated, the curd is cut and the whey is drained from the curd overnight. The next morning, fresh curd is made and mixed with that prepared the previous day, and a penicillium mold is sometimes incorporated. The mixture is put into molds and pressed with moderate pressure for several days, during which time it is turned frequently and salted. Then it is transferred to the curing cellar, and it is cured for 3 or 4 months. While curing, it is turned frequently and washed with salty water to check the growth of mold on the surface of the cheese.
Mont d'Or
Mont d'Or, a soft cheese similar to Pont l'Évêque, is named for Mont d'Or, near Lyon, in the Department of Rhône, France, where it is said to have been made for more than 300 years. It is made also in other parts of France, especially in the Departments of Eure and Oise.
It formerly was made from goat's milk, but now usually is made from cow's milk to which a small quantity of goat's milk may be added. Whole or partly skimmed milk is set with rennet at a temperature of 90° to 100° F. The coagulation period varies from 30 minutes to 2 hours. Sometimes the curd is cut before it is put in the hoops and sometimes it is put in the hoops without being cut. It is put into circular hoops, about 4½ inches in diameter and 3 inches deep, that have been placed on a draining board covered with straw. About an hour later the cheeses are turned, and they are turned frequently thereafter until they are firm. A disk with a light weight is sometimes placed on each cheese to hasten drainage of the whey. The cheese is salted on the surface. Mont d'Or is often sold without curing; however, it may be cured for about a week in summer and from 2 to 3 weeks in winter, during which time it is turned frequently and washed with salty water to retard the growth of molds on the surface of the cheese.
Analysis: Moisture, 42 percent; fat, 30 percent; protein, 20 percent; and salt, 2 percent.
Monterey
Monterey (or Jack) cheese was first made on farms in Monterey County, Calif., about 1892, and manufacture on a factory scale was begun about 1916. The name Monterey has largely replaced Jack, except for the type known as High-moisture Jack.
The cheese is made from pasteurized whole, partly skimmed, or skim milk. Whole-milk Monterey is semisoft; Monterey made from partly skimmed or skim milk (called grating-type Monterey, dry Monterey, or dry Jack) is hard and is used for grating. High-moisture Jack is made from whole milk by a slightly different process.
Monterey is made by a method similar to Colby, but the making process takes less time. The curd is cooled to a temperature of about 86° F. by running water either into the vat jacket or directly into the curd. (Colby is cooled to about 80° by running water directly into the curd.) The curd is salted after the whey has drained. Enough curd to make each cheese is placed in a square of muslin; as the four corners of the cloth are pulled together, the curd is formed as nearly round as possible; the cloth is tied tightly with a string, and the excess cloth is spread evenly over the top of the curd. Then the cheese is pressed either between boards or in a hoop. The pressed cheeses are round and flat and may have indentations on one surface where the cloth was tied before pressing. The sides are straight if the cheese was pressed in a hoop and round if it was pressed between boards. The cheeses are about 9½ inches in diameter and usually weigh between 6 and 9 pounds and never more than 12.
Whole-milk Monterey contains more moisture and is softer than either Granular or Colby. It is cured for 3 to 6 weeks at a temperature of about 60° F. and a relative humidity or 70 percent.
Grating-type Monterey is cured for at least 6 months. The cheeses may be coated with oil containing pepper.
In making High-moisture Jack, the curd is heated to a temperature no higher than 96° F. (which is 6 to 8 degrees lower than in making Monterey) part of the whey is drained off, and the curd is cooled quickly to 72° by running water directly into the vat. It is cured at a temperature between 40° and 50°, rather than 60°. It contains more moisture and is softer than whole-milk Monterey.
Analysis: Moisture, not more than 44 percent for whole-milk Monterey; not more than 34 percent for grating-type Monterey; and not less than 44 but less than 50 percent for High-moisture Jack; fat in the solids, not less than 50 percent for whole-milk Monterey and High-moisture Jack; not less than 32 percent for grating-type Monterey; and salt, about 1.5 percent.
Monthéry
Monthéry, which is very much like Brie, is a soft, surface-ripened, cow's-milk cheese made in Seine-et-Oise, France. It is made in two sizes. The larger is about 14 inches in diameter and 2 inches thick, and weighs about 5 ½ pounds; the smaller weighs about 3 pounds. Monthéry is made from either whole or partly skimmed milk. Rennet is added and, when the curd is sufficiently firm, it is broken up, put into molds, and pressed. The cheese is salted and is placed in a drying room for 8 to 15 days, where curing begins. Then it is transferred to a cellar where curing is completed at a temperature of about 55° F. As it ripens, a whitish mold grows on the surface of the cheese, and this is followed by a blue mold in which red spots appear. The cheese is ready for sale after curing for about a month.
Mozarinelli
Mozarinelli is a cheese made in Italy from cow's or buffalo's milk.
Mozzarella
Mozzarella is a soft, plastic-curd cheese that is made in some parts of Latium and Campania in southern Italy. It originally was made only from buffalo's milk, but now it is made also from cow's milk. It is made in much the same way as Caciocavallo and Scamorze; however, it more nearly resembles Scamorze, as both Mozzarella and Scamorze are eaten while fresh, with little or no ripening. It is irregularly spherical in shape and weighs 8 ounces to a pound. It is used for the most part in cooking. The yield is 13 to 15 pounds per 100 pounds of cow's milk. Ricotta is often made from the whey.
Considerable Mozzarella is made in the United States, especially in New York. The milk is set with rennet at a temperature of 86° to 88° F. (if pasteurized milk is used the setting temperature should be 96°); the curd is cut and it is put into bags to drain. It is common practice to ship the curd to a dealer at this stage, as is done with cottage-cheese curd. The dealer stores the curd until he is ready to market the cheese. Then he completes the manufacturing process (heating and kneading the curd in the same way as in making Scamorze), and markets the fresh cheese.
Münster
Münster (or Muenster) is a semisoft, whole-milk cheese that was first made in the vicinity of Münster in the Vosges Mountains near the western border of Germany. It is similar to Brick cheese but has less surface smear and undergoes less surface ripening while curing. It contains numerous small mechanical openings. Géromé (or Gérardmer), which is made in nearby France, is similar.
The cheeses usually are cylindrical and fiat, about 7 inches in diameter and from 2 to 7 inches thick. Those 2 inches thick weigh about 2 pounds; those 7 inches thick weigh as much as 10 pounds. Usually they are 4 to 5 inches thick and weigh between 4 and 6 pounds. In some factories the cheeses are made in loaf shape.
Good-quality milk is essential in making Münster. In the United States, the milk is pasteurized. Lactic starter is added, and annatto color may be added. The milk is warmed to a temperature of 86° to 90° F., and rennet is added. From 30 to 40 minutes later the curd is cut into pieces about ½ inch in diameter; then it is stirred and heated. (In Europe, the time from setting to cutting may be as long as 2 hours; the curd is left undisturbed in the whey for 30 to 45 minutes after it is cut, and it is not heated.)
When the curd is sufficiently firm, the whey is drained off, sometimes caraway seed is mixed with the curd, and it is dipped into perforated cloth-lined metal forms. The forms are in two parts, which fit together.
The forms of curd are turned and the cloths are changed several times the first day; usually at the end of the first day, the upper half of each form and the cloth lining are removed. The curd remains in the lower half of the forms for 3 or 4 days and is turned twice daily. Then the cheeses are removed from the forms and salted. Usually they are rubbed with salt daily for 2 or 3 days; if necessary, they are replaced in the forms between saltings until they are firm enough to retain their shape. In some factories, they are salted in brine.
The cheeses are dried, then cured at a temperature of 50° to 55° F. and a relative humidity of about 75 percent. They are turned and cleaned at least twice a week. In some factories they are washed with salty water; in others, they are washed with water and rubbed lightly with salt. Sometimes they are rubbed with vegetable oil. In the United States they usually are cured for 6 to 8 weeks, but frequently are sold after ripening only a week or two; in Europe they are cured for as long as 3 months. The cheeses are wrapped in parchment or waxed paper and packed in boxes. From 10 to 12 pounds of cheese is obtained from 100 pounds of whole milk.
Analysis: Moisture, not more than 46 percent (usually 42 to 44 percent); fat, 28 to 29.6 percent ( not less than 50 percent in the solids); and salt, 1.8 to 2 percent.
Mysost
Mysost cheese is made in the Scandinavian countries (Norway, Sweden, and Denmark) and in a few factories in the United States, principally in northern Illinois, Michigan, New York, and Wisconsin, from the whey obtained in the manufacture of other cheeses. There is considerable variation in the composition of the whey used in different factories and in different localities, and in the manufacturing procedure and the composition of the cheese; and it is known by different local names. Mysost is made from cow's-milk whey. Similar cheese made from goat's-milk whey is called Gjetost. In some instances a small proportion, usually not more than 10 percent, of buttermilk or whole milk, or even cream is added to the whey. Cheese made from such whey contains more fat and is softer and sometimes is called Primost or Fl¸tost. Cheese made by the same method from whole milk rather than whey is called Gomost.
The cheese consists principally of caramelized lactose (milk sugar) but contains also the fat, protein, and minerals present in the whey. It is light brown in color, has a buttery consistency and a mild, sweetish flavor. It does not undergo appreciable ripening but keeps well when packaged properly.
Sometimes, if the whey contains considerable acid, neutralizer is added to prevent a sour or bitter flavor in the cheese. If sweet whey is used, lactic starter usually is added. The whey is strained into a kettle and boiled (condensed) until it is a viscous mass, which may take 5 hours or longer. It is stirred while boiling. The albuminous material that rises to the surface is skimmed off. When the whey is reduced to about one-fourth its original volume and has the consistency of heavy cream, the albumin skimmed off earlier is stirred in thoroughly. Some manufacturers also stir in as much as 10 percent of brown sugar and some add spices, such as cloves or cumin seed. Then, while hot, it is poured or dipped into a round tank or vat equipped with a stirrer, and, while cooling, it is stirred constantly to prevent the formation of lactose crystals. When cool, it is poured into greased round or rectangular forms. When hard (firm), the cheeses usually but not always are cut into pie-shaped or small rectangular segments. Then, the whole cheese or, if cut, the individual segments may be dipped in wax or paraffin, and they are wrapped tightly, preferably in metal foil, to prevent contamination, and packed in cartons. The flat, cylindrical cheeses frequently weigh about 18 pounds.
Analysis: Moisture, frequently about 13 percent and preferably not more than 18 percent; fat in the solids, frequently 10 to 20 percent but preferably not less than 33 percent.
Nägeles
Nägeles (Fresh) cheese is made in the Netherlands from cow's skim milk. Cloves and cumin seed are mixed with the curd. It is shaped like Derby, that is, it is round, about 16 inches in diameter and 5 inches thick.
Natural Rindless Loaf
Natural Rindless Loaf cheese is natural (not process) cheese that is packaged and marketed in a transparent, flexible wrapper by one of several variations of a method that was developed about 1940. Large quantities of various kinds of cheese, including Brick, Cheddar, and Swiss, are now marketed in this way. There is no rind formation on such cheese, and drying losses are minimized or eliminated. The cheese may be packaged by the manufacturer, by the warehouse operator, or by the retailer, and either before or after it is cured. The type of wrapper and the method used depend on the kind of cheese packaged and the place of packaging.
A brief description of the method of making rindless Cheddar cheese follows:
Cheddar cheese for packaging should be made from pasteurized milk because pasteurized-milk cheese produces gas at a relatively low rate while curing and therefore will not cause the wrapper to "bulge." The curd is pressed in rectangular forms, to make blocks of cheese weighing 20,40,60, or 80 pounds.
The blocks of cheese are wrapped in various types of films, boxed to maintain shape and stored at curing temperatures. When the desired flavor has developed the blocks are cut into consumer-size prints, wedges, sticks, or slices. These are wrapped in film to prevent rind formation. To prolong keeping quality the packages may be evacuated or gas flushed with nitrogen. Packages may contain a mold-inhibiting ingredient if so stated. All natural cheese should be kept under refrigeration until consumed.
Nessel
Nessel is a soft, cured cheese made in England from cow's whole milk. The cheeses are round and thin.
Neufchâtel
Neufchâtel cheese (Fromage de Neufchâtel), as made originally in France—especially in the Department of Seine Inférieure—is a soft, mild cheese made from whole or skim milk or a mixture of milk and cream. It may be eaten fresh or it may be cured. Bondon, Malakoff, Petit Carré, and Petit Suisse are other French cheeses that differ from Neufchatel mainly in fat content and in size and shape.
Lactic starter is added to fresh milk at a temperature of 82° to 86° F., and enough rennet is added to coagulate the curd in 16 to 18 hours, or overnight. The coagulated curd is poured into a cloth, and it is either hung up to drain or placed in a drainer for 2 to 4 hours or longer. When the whey has practically stopped dripping, the curd is gathered up in the cloth, as in a bag, and chilled with ice. Then it is pressed between boards with a weight on top for 6 to 8 hours. The pressed curd is removed from the cloth bag, salted, either run through a curd mill or kneaded by hand, and then pressed in molds about 2½ inches in diameter and 2 or 3 inches deep. Salt may be rubbed on the surface of the cheeses when they are removed from the molds. Next, they are dried on a draining board for about 24 hours. Then they are transferred to a cool, damp curing room or cellar where they are kept clean and are inverted frequently. While curing, microorganisms—including Mycoderma casei, Penicillium candidum, and P. camemberti, as well as the so-called red cheese bacteria—grow on the surface of the cheese; a thin coating of white mold develops, followed by a yellow or reddish growth. The cheese, which is ready to market in 3 to 4 weeks, is wrapped in parchment or tinfoil. About 15 pounds of cured Neufchatel cheese can be made from 100 pounds of rich, whole milk.
Neufchâtel frais (fresh) refers to Neufchâtel cheese made in France that is eaten without curing. It is cylindrical and flat, about 2 inches in diameter and 2½ inches thick, and weighs less than 8 ounces. It is made usually from whole milk and contains at least 45 percent of fat in the solids.
In the United States, Neufchâtel is made from pasteurized milk or a pasteurized milk-and-cream mixture in much the same way as Cream cheese, but it contains less fat and more moisture.
Analysis (fresh, domestic Neufchâtel): Moisture, 55 to 60 percent (not more than 65 percent); fat, not less than 20 percent but less than 33 percent; protein, 18 percent; and salt, 0.8 to 1.2 percent.
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