Cotronese
Cotronese is a ewe's milk cheese similar to Moliterno. Both originated in Calabria and Lucania, Italy. They are said to be seasoned at times with pepper.
Cottage
Cottage cheese, sometimes called Pot cheese and also Dutch cheese or Schmierkase, is a soft, uncured cheese made from skim milk or from reconstituted concentrated skim milk or nonfat dry milk solids.
Large-grained, low-acid cheese is made by adding rennet to the milk, cutting the curd into large cubes, and washing the curd thoroughly to reduce the acid flavor. It is known as sweet-curd Cottage cheese, flake-type Cottage cheese, and low-acid rennet-type Cottage cheese. The large particles of curd resemble kernels of popped corn, and in some localities this kind of cheese is called Popcorn cheese. Small-grained Cottage cheese sometimes is called country-style or farm-style cheese.
Usually some cream is mixed with the cheese curd before it is marketed or consumed. If the cheese contains 4 percent or more of fat, it is called Creamed Cottage cheese. Flavoring materials, such as peppers, olives, and pimientos, may be added also.
Large quantities of Cottage cheese are made and consumed in the United States; it is highly nutritious and palatable and is used as a table cheese and in salads. It is easy to make both in the home and in the factory. In the home, about 1 pound of cheese is obtained from 1 gallon of skim milk; in the factory, from 12 to 15 pounds of curd is obtained from 100 pounds of skim milk and this makes from 14 to 18 pounds of Creamed Cottage cheese.
Cottage cheese may be made by either the short-setting method or the long-setting method. In the short-setting method, more lactic starter is added to the milk than in the long-setting method; the milk is set at a higher temperature; and the coagulation period is shorter. In both methods, the milk is pasteurized and cooled to the setting temperature. Lactic starter is added; rennet may be added; and the milk is held at the setting temperature until it curdles.
The curd is ready to cut when it is firm but not hard and brittle. It is cut into cubes, the size determining to some extent the size of the curd particles in the finished cheese. Then the curd is heated, with careful stirring. The temperature to which the curd is heated and the length of the heating period depend on the characteristics of the curd and the acidity of the whey. When the curd has attained the proper firmness, the whey is drained off and the curd washed first with cool tap water, then with ice water. Then the water is drained off. When the curd is firm and dry, it is salted. It may be creamed and packed in consumer-size cartons. However, it is customary for the manufacturer to pack the curd in tubs or tins that hold as much as 50 pounds for shipping to the distributor, who creams and packs it in consumer-size cartons to supply his daily needs. The curd may be held for several days at a temperature of 32° to 35° F.
Analysis: Moisture, not more than 80 percent (usually 70 to 72 percent).
Coulommiers
Coulommiers cheese, first made in the vicinity of Coulommiers, in the Department of Seine-et-Marne, France, is a soft, mold-ripened, unwashed cheese. According to some authorities, Coulommiers and the smallest (1-pound) Brie are identical; according to other authorities, Coulommiers is similar to Brie and to Camembert, but is ripened for a shorter period.
A modified Coulommiers cheese is made in the United States and Canada. It is suitable for making in the home as the process and equipment are simple. It usually is eaten fresh or when only a few days old. If mellower cheese with a stronger flavor is desired, it may be held for a week or two, although by that time the surface of the cheese may be moldy. The cheeses are round and flat, about 5½ inches in diameter and 1 to 1½ inches thick, and they weigh between ¾ and 1 pound. The yield is 1⅓ to 2 pounds of cheese per gallon of milk.
Cow's fresh, whole milk, or a mixture of evening and morning milk, is warmed to 86° F. (some authorities recommend 80°), in a vat or other container. Lactic starter and rennet are added, the amount depending on the condition of the milk and whether it is desired to have the curd firm enough to cut in 30 minutes, in 1 to 1½ hours, or in 2 to 3 hours. After the rennet is added, the surface of the mixture is stirred gently for a few minutes to keep the cream from rising, but stirring is discontinued before coagulation begins. The temperature of the milk should not go below 80°. While the curd is still soft, large ladlefuls are removed and set aside to be placed on the cheeses later to form smooth tops.
The coagulated curd may be cut into ½- or ¾-inch cubes and ladled carefully into the hoops about 15 minutes after cutting; or it may be cut into thin slices with a sharp-edged ladle and transferred to the hoops without breaking. The set-aside curd is put into the hoops last.
The hoops are metal, open at top and bottom, and perforated on the sides to permit drainage of the whey. They are about 5 inches in diameter and consist of two fitted sections—a lower section about 2 inches deep and an upper collar 3 inches deep. Two to four hoops are placed on a drain mat which is spread on a movable board on a grooved drain table.
The temperature of the room should be at least 68° F. so the curd will drain and firm properly, and the hoops are covered to reduce loss of heat. The hoops are turned frequently at first, then less often, as the curd settles and drains. When the curd has settled into the lower half of the hoops, the top half is removed and a drain mat is placed over the hoops with a drain board over the mat, and the hoops together with the board are turned together.
The cheeses may be sprinkled with fine salt after each turning the first day; they are turned and salted again in the hoops the morning of the second day, and are removed from the hoops the morning of the third day. Or salting may be delayed until the cheeses are removed from the hoops, when they are placed in strong salt brine for an hour or longer, then dried.
The cheeses are wrapped in parchment, usually with an outer tinfoil wrapper. Usually they are eaten fresh, but they may be held a week or two at a temperature of about 52° F., and no higher than 60°. Some people prefer this cheese after it has cured several weeks. While curing, it should be held at a somewhat lower temperature either in a moist place or covered to prevent drying, turned frequently, and kept clean and free of excess mold.
Analysis: Moisture, 55 to 60 percent; fat, 22 to 24 percent; protein, 13 to 15 percent; and salt, 2 to 2.5 percent.
Cream
Cream cheese is a soft, mild, rich, uncured cheese made of cream or a mixture of cream and milk, and used as a spread for bread, in sandwiches, and with salads. It is similar to unripened Neufchâtel but has a higher fat content. It is one of the most popular soft cheeses in the United States and is made in many factories throughout the country, especially in New York and Wisconsin. In addition, there are several French Cream cheeses.
The method of making Cream cheese varies in the different factories in the United States; following is a general description:
The cream, or milk-and-cream mixture, which usually is homogenized, is pasteurized, cooled to a temperature of 75° to 85° F., and lactic-acid culture, with or without rennet, is added. After the curd forms, it is stirred until it is smooth and then is heated by one of two methods. In one method, the curd is heated in the vat, with stirring, to a temperature of 115° to 125° and held at that temperature until the whey begins to separate from the curd. Then the curd is ready to drain. It may be placed in draining bags immediately or it may be cooled before it is placed in the bags. In the other method, the curd is stirred until it is smooth, and stirring is continued as hot water (equal to the volume of curd) is added. The temperature of the water should be about 170° to 180°. When the curd-water mixture reaches a temperature of 120° to 130°, it is poured into the draining bags.
When whey has practically stopped draining from the curd, the cheese is packaged by either the cold-pack method or the hot-pack method. In the cold-pack method, the curd is pressed and chilled, and salt is added; it is then mixed until it is smooth, and flavoring materials—such as pimientos, olives, pineapple, or relish—may be added. Usually cream cheese is packed in metal foil or in glasses sealed with metal tops.
In the hot-pack method, the curd is stirred and salted, and any one of several dairy ingredients may be added. Then the mixture is pasteurized, it may be homogenized, flavoring material may be added, and it is packed immediately (while it is in a semifluid condition) in the final package.
Analysis: Moisture, not more than 55 percent (usually 48 to 52 percent); fat, not less than 33 percent (usually 35 to 38 percent); protein, 10 percent; and salt, 0.8 to 1.2 percent.
Creole
Creole is a soft, rich, unripened, Cottage-type cheese, made by mixing about equal quantities of Cottage-type curd and rich cream. It is made in Louisiana and considerable quantities are produced for the New Orleans market.
Crescenza
Crescenza, also known as Carsenza, Stracchino Crescenza, and Crescenza Lombardi, is an uncooked, soft, creamy, mildly sweet, fast-ripening, yellowish cheese of the Bel Paese type. It is made from September to April in Lombardy, in northern Italy, from cow's whole milk. A similar cheese called Raviggiolo is made in Tuscany, Italy, from ewe's milk.
The milk is coagulated with rennet extract at 87° F. The curd is cut and dipped into rectangular wooden forms which are laid on straw mats to drain for a day. The cheese is held at 68° for another day; then it is salted with dry salt and ripened in a cold, moist room for 10 to 15 days. The cheeses weigh from ½ to 3½ pounds.
Analysis: Fat in the solids, exceeds 50 percent.
Creuse
Creuse is a skim-milk cheese made on farms in the Department of Creuse, France. Enough rennet is added to the milk to coagulate it in approximately 12 hours, or it may be warmed and curdled by souring. The curd is stirred and warmed, then dipped into earthenware molds, about 7 inches in diameter and 5 or 6 inches deep. The molds are perforated on the bottom and sides so that the whey can drain off. After several days the cheese is removed from the molds, and it is turned and rubbed with salt at regular intervals. It may be aged for a year or more, in which case it becomes very dry and firm; or it may be put into tightly closed containers lined with straw to ripen, in which case it becomes soft and yellow and acquires a very pronounced flavor.
Damen
Damen, sometimes called Gloire des Montagnes, is a soft, uncured cheese made in Hungary from cow's milk.
Danish Export
Danish Export cheese is made in some of the creameries in Denmark to furnish an outlet for skim milk and buttermilk. The cheese is small, flat, and cylindrical, about the size and shape of Gouda. As much as 15 percent of fresh buttermilk is mixed with skim milk and set at 98° F. with enough rennet to coagulate it in 25 minutes. The curd is cut carefully, stirred, dipped into forms having rounded bottoms, kneaded, pressed down, and finally covered with a board on which a weight is placed. After 12 hours, the cheeses are placed in a brine tank. They are taken out of the brine after 24 hours, covered with salt for a short time, and then transferred to the curing room where the temperature is about 55°. They are turned and wiped with a cloth every day during the ripening period of 5 weeks.
Analysis: Moisture, 39 to 50 percent; fat, 9 to 24 percent; protein, 28 to 34 percent; and salt, 1 to 3 percent.
Delft
Delft is a spiced cheese made in the Netherlands from partly skimmed cow's milk. It is almost exactly like Leyden.
Derby
Derby, or Derbyshire, is a hard, sweet-curd cheese made in Derbyshire, England, from cow's whole milk. It is similar to Cheddar but is not so firm and solid, is more flaky when broken, has a higher moisture content, and ripens more rapidly. Gloucester, Leicester, Warwickshire, and Wiltshire are other English cheeses that are very similar to Derby.
Factory production of cheese in England began in 1870 with the establishment of two factories for making Derby cheese. This made it possible to produce cheese more uniform in quality and size than was made in farm dairies. The cheeses are circular, about 15 inches in diameter and 5 inches thick, and weigh about 30 pounds.
A mixture of evening and morning milk is warmed to a temperature of 80° to 85° F. Lactic starter and rennet are added, and color is added for certain markets. About an hour after the milk is set, the curd should be very firm. It is then cut, heated with stirring to a temperature of 96° in 50 minutes, and the whey is drained off. Sometimes the curd is placed on a cloth on a drain rack to drain, and sometimes the whey is expelled by pressing the curd lightly, then more heavily, in the vat. The matted curd is cut into large blocks which are kept warm and are turned occasionally as the whey continues to drain and then develops firmness.
When the curd is sufficiently firm—usually in about 40 minutes—it is put through a curd mill. Sometimes it is salted at this time (as in making Cheddar and Cheshire), and it is put in the hoops and pressed.
When the cheeses have been in the press an hour, they are removed and immersed in hot water (at a temperature of 150° F.) for about a minute; then they are dressed in cloth and pressed again. About 5 hours later, they are removed from the press again. If the curd was not salted earlier, the cheeses are salted on the surface before they are redressed and returned to the press. This procedure is repeated at intervals and the pressure is increased gradually, until the final pressure is about a ton.
Usually the cheeses are taken to the curing room on the third day. They are cured at a temperature of approximately 60° F. for at least a month, but more often for 3 or 4 months as the flavor and quality improve with age.
Analysis: Moisture, 35 to 39 percent; fat, 28 to 30.5 percent; and salt, 2 percent.
Devonshire Cream
Devonshire Cream cheese is made in England. Cream is allowed to rise on the milk, then the milk with the layer of cream is heated to the boiling point, without stirring. After this it is set aside for a short time until the layer of cream becomes firm. The cream is put into small molds, which are placed on straw mats to drain. When the cheeses are hard enough to retain their shape, they are ready to market.
Domiati
Domiati, a so-called pickled cheese and one of the most popular Egyptian cheeses, is made also in some of the other tropical countries where Arabic is spoken. It is made from whole or partly skimmed cow's or buffalo's milk. It is a soft, white cheese with no openings, mild and salty in flavor when fresh and cleanly acid when cured. When it is held for prolonged periods (a year or more) it darkens in color and develops a strong flavor. The cheeses usually are 1½ inches thick and about 3⅛ inches square; but sometimes they are cylindrical in shape, either 2½ or 5 inches in diameter.
The principal characteristic that distinguishes Domiati from other cheeses is that salt is added to the milk at the beginning of the cheese-making process, before rennet is added. Usually from 5 to 15 percent of salt is added to two-thirds of the milk, and the rest is heated to a temperature of 170° F.; then the two portions are mixed, and rennet is added at 105° to 115°. However, if the cheese is made in a jacketed vat so a constant temperature can be maintained, a setting temperature of 95° to 100° is preferable. After a coagulation period of 2 to 3 hours, the curd is ladled into metal hoops or wooden forms lined with mosquito netting. If a large quantity of cheese is being made, a form may be made by fastening planks to a drain table. The forms vary in size. The smallest are the size of a single cheese, a large wooden form may hold 100 pounds of curd, and a form made of planks may hold as much as a ton.
The curd in the small hoops or forms is inverted frequently; that in the large forms is pressed and then cut into suitable sizes for marketing. If it is to be marketed as fresh cheese, it is wrapped in waxed paper. If it is to be cured, it is pickled in salt-whey or salt-milk brine. For local markets, the cheese is cured for 4 to 8 months in the brine solution in earthenware containers. For shipping, the cheese in the brine solution is sealed in tin containers.
About 25 pounds of cheese can be made from 100 pounds of cow's whole milk and 33 pounds from 100 pounds of buffalo's whole milk, to which 7.5 percent of salt is added.
Analysis (whole-milk, cured cheese): Moisture, 52 to 55 percent; fat 20 to 25 percent; and salt, 4.8 percent.
Dorset
Dorset cheese, known also as Dorset Blue, Blue Vinny, and Blue Veiny, is one of the hard, blue-veined cheeses made in England; however, it is not so well known as Stilton and Wensleydale, other English blue-veined cheeses. The name Dorset refers to the County Dorset in England where the cheese was first made at least 200 years ago, and the other names refer to the blue mold that develops in the open-textured curd during the curing process. The cheese is circular and flat and weighs from 14 to 16 pounds. It usually is hard, dry, and crumbly, with a sharp and frequently acid flavor; it is white with blue veining throughout.
Dorset is made from partly skimmed cow's milk. The milk, often highly acid, is warmed to a temperature of 80° F. and curdled with rennet. When the curd is very firm, it is cut into cubes and stirred for several minutes, after which it settles in the whey; then it is stirred again. When the curd is sufficiently acid and firm, the whey is drained off and the curd collected in cloths. The curd, in the cloths, is either hung up or placed on a draining rack to drain further. It is kept warm, and inverted and repacked occasionally as it drains. When it has acquired the desired texture, it is broken up and salted at the rate of about 5½ ounces of salt to 10 pounds of curd. Then it is placed in forms and pressed overnight, lightly at first and later with gradually increasing pressure. The following morning the cheese is inverted, and it is pressed another day with a pressure of 300 pounds. The cheeses may be bandaged before they are placed in the curing room.
Analysis: Moisture, 41.5 percent; fat, 8.8 to 27.6 percent; and salt, 2.9 percent.
Dotter
Dotter cheese is said to have been made in Nuremberg, Germany, by mixing egg yolk with skim milk and then making this mixture into cheese in the usual way.
Dry
Dry cheese, known also as Sperrkäse and Trockenkäse, is made in small dairies in the eastern part of the Bavarian Alps and in the Tyrol. It is made for home consumption and only in winter when the milk cannot be used profitably for other purposes. The method is simple. Skim milk is put into a large kettle, heated, and kept warm until it has thickened thoroughly by souring. It is then broken up and cooked until it is quite firm. A small quantity of salt is added, and sometimes some caraway seed, and the curd is then put into forms of various sizes. It is placed in a drying room to dry until it becomes very hard; it is then ready to eat.
Duel
Duel cheese is a soft, cured, cow's milk cheese made in Austria. It is 2 inches square and 1 inch thick.
Dunlop
Dunlop, a rich, white, pressed cheese made in Scotland, formerly was considered the national cheese of Scotland. However, it has been largely superseded by Cheddar which it resembles.
Analysis: Moisture, 38 percent; fat, 32 percent; and protein, 26 percent.
Edam
Edam cheese was first made in the vicinity of Edam in the Province of North Holland, Netherlands. It is known in the Netherlands by various local names, such as Manbollen, Katzenkopf, and Tete de Maure. Like Gouda, it is a semisoft to hard, sweet-curd cheese made from cow's milk. Originally it was made from whole milk but now the fat content of the milk is usually reduced to about 2.5 percent. When the cheese is made for export, the fat content is indicated on the label, according to Government specifications. Edam is made also in the United States.
Edam has a pleasingly mild, clean, sometimes salty, flavor and a rather firm and crumbly body, free of holes and openings. It usually is shaped, like a flattened ball, but in the United States it is made also in a loaf shape. The cheeses usually weigh from 3½ to 4½ pounds but sometimes weigh as much as 14 pounds. In the United States, they sometimes weigh only about ¾ to 1 pound.
High-quality milk should be used in making Edam; if the milk is pasteurized, as is common in the United States, lactic starter is added. Color may be added and the milk is set with rennet extract. About 15 minutes later the curd is cut into ⅜-inch cubes, then stirred and heated to a temperature of 90° to 95° F. When the curd is sufficiently firm, part of the whey is drained off. When enough whey has drained so that the curd is exposed, the curd is pushed to the side of the vat and more whey pressed out. The curd is stirred and may be salted. The temperature of the curd should be at least 88° when it is put into the molds for pressing.
Special pressing molds, preferably metal but sometimes hardwood and lined with cheesecloth, are used. Each has a round lower section about 6 inches deep and 6 inches in diameter, with holes in the bottom for drainage, and a round cover. In the United States the cheese sometimes is pressed in rectangular loaf-shaped molds.
The molds are filled with curd, covered, and then pressed for about 30 minutes with a pressure of 20 to 30 pounds. Then the cheeses are removed from the molds and dipped in warm whey (at a temperature of 125° to 130° F.). The rough edges of curd are trimmed off, and the cheeses are bandaged and again pressed for 6 to 12 hours with a pressure of 60 to 120 pounds.
The cheeses then are rubbed with fine salt and placed in salt in special salting molds that are the same shape as the pressing molds but have no covers. Salting is continued for 5 or 6 days, and the cheeses are turned daily. In the United States, and less commonly in the Netherlands, the cheeses are salted by immersion in a salting bath for about a week; however, dry salting is preferable as it aids in producing a smooth rind.
The cheeses are scrubbed with a brush in warm water or whey, wiped dry, and then cured on shelves at a temperature of 50° to 60° F. and a relative humidity of 80 to 90 percent. They are piled in layers on the shelves to aid in flattening the top and bottom surfaces. They are washed, dried, and turned daily for a week or two, then less frequently. In some factories they are washed in a churn-like machine, and the surfaces may be smoothed by rotating the cheeses in a machine that resembles a lathe.
In the Netherlands, cheese for export is colored red, rubbed with oil, and wrapped in some transparent material; the red coating is an identifying characteristic of Edam cheese. However, cheese made for consumption within that country is rubbed with oil but not colored.
In the United States, Edam cheese is covered with red paraffin or some other tightly adhering red coating.
The cheeses are packed usually 8 to 12 in a box; for export to warm climates they may be sealed in tins. Between 8 and 9 pounds of cured cheese is obtained per 100 pounds of milk.
Analysis: Moisture, not more than 45 percent (usually 35 to 38 percent); fat, 26.5 to 29.5 percent (not less than 40 percent in the solids); protein, 27 to 29 percent; and salt, 1.6 to 2 percent.
Egg
Egg cheese, first made in the Province of Nyland, Finland, is made from fresh milk to which fresh eggs are added at the rate of 2 to 12 eggs for each 6 quarts of milk. Usually the eggs and starter are mixed and then added to the milk, but sometimes only half the eggs are added with the starter and the other half are added after the whey has drained from the curd. Best results are obtained with a cream starter.
Emiliano
Emiliano, a very hard cheese of the Italian Grana or Parmesan type, is the same as Reggiano, according to some authorities. The cheese is cylindrical and the sides may be either straight or slightly convex. It is 12 to 16 inches in diameter, 6 to 8½ inches thick, and weighs from 44 to 66 pounds. The surface is colored dark and is oiled; the interior is light yellow. The flavor varies from mild to rather sharp, and the texture is granular. Usually there are no eyes, but some cheeses have a few small eyes, unevenly distributed. The curing period usually is about a year, but it may be as long as 20 months for cheese made in the winter and 2 years for cheese made in the spring. The aged cheese is used for grating.
Analysis: Moisture, 30 to 35 percent at 1 year; 20 to 30 percent at 2 years; fat in the solids, 32 to 39 percent.
Engadine
Engadine cheese is made in the Canton of Grisons, Switzerland, from cow's whole milk.
Analysis: Moisture, 47.30 percent; fat, 11.40 percent; and protein, 36.34 percent.
English Dairy
English Dairy cheese is a very hard cheese that is made in the same general way as Cheddar except that it is cooked much longer. It was made some years ago, mostly in the United States, and was used in cooking.
Époisse
Époisse is a soft cheese made from whole or partly skimmed milk in the Department of Côte-d'Or, France.
Eriwani
Eriwani cheese, also known by different local names such at Karab, Tali, Kurini, Elisavetpolen, and Kasach, is made from fresh ewe's milk, principally in the Caucasus. The milk is set at about 95° F. with enough rennet to coagulate it in 20 minutes. The curd is broken up, put into a sack to drain, and then pressed with stones until the whey stops running. The cheese is salted in brine.
Ervy
Ervy, a soft cheese resembling Camembert, is named for the village of Ervy in the Department of Aube, France, where it is made. It is about 7 inches in diameter and 2½ inches thick, and weighs about 4 pounds.
Farm
Farm cheese as originally made on farms in France is essentially the same as Cottage cheese. It is known by several different names, including Fromage á la Pie, Mou, Maigre, and Ferme. The making process is simple. Whole or skim milk is curdled by souring, and the whey is poured off. Sometimes the curd is enclosed in cloth on which a board and weight are placed, to hasten drainage. The curd is kneaded to further expel whey. Then salt and sometimes sweet cream are mixed with the curd, and it is molded into various sizes and shapes. The cheese usually is consumed locally, either while fresh or after curing.
In the United States, Farm cheese, which is known also as Farmer cheese and Pressed cheese and, erroneously, as Cream cheese, is a firm, pressed cheese made on farms. There is considerable variation in the cheese because the method of making differs in different localities and may not be uniform on all farms in one locality. Usually whole milk is used, but sometimes the milk is partly skimmed. Starter (which may be buttermilk of good flavor) is added to the milk at room temperature or at a temperature as high as 86° F. Rennet may be added, or the milk may be coagulated by souring. The coagulation period may be as long as 5 or 6 hours, or overnight. The curd is cut into coarse particles and stirred, and it may be heated to about 90°. The whey is drained off and the curd is stirred and salted. Then the curd is placed in bags or in cloth-lined metal hoops and pressed overnight. The next morning the cheese is removed from the bag or hoop and wrapped in parchment if it is to be eaten without much curing. If it is to be cured, the pressed cheese is dried and then coated by dipping in hot paraffin. It is cured in a moist cellar at a temperature not over 60°. The cheese should have a clean, mild flavor and should slice without crumbling. The yield is about 10 pounds per 100 pounds of whole milk and about 9 pounds per 100 pounds of partly-skimmed milk.
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