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Descriptions of Cheeses — Part 3

Descriptions of Cheeses — Part 3

Camosun

Camosun is a semisoft, open-textured cheese that is said to resemble Gouda and Monterey. The method of making Camosun, which was developed in 1932 by the Extension Service of Washington State College as a means of utilizing surplus milk on farms, is similar to but less time consuming than the Granular or Stirred-curd process. The drained curd is pressed in hoops about 6 inches in diameter and 7 inches deep. The cheese is salted in brine for 30 hours, then coated with paraffin and cured for 1 to 3 months in a relatively humid room at 50° to 60° F.

Canned

Canned cheese refers to a method of packaging, not to a kind of cheese, although cheese so packaged usually is American Cheddar cheese. The cheese curd is pressed in special forms the size and shape of the can, either round or rectangular, and is sealed and cured in the can. Between 1933 and 1940, the U.S. Department of Agriculture developed a method for curing cheese in a special valve-vented can which permits the escape of gases but prevents the entrance of air and hence prevents the development of mold. Later, the New York (Geneva) and Washington experiment stations developed methods for sealing the cheese in cans under vacuum. The properties and composition of canned cheese are like those of the same cheese not canned except that there is no loss of moisture and no loss in weight while curing. Early work on curing cheese in cans developed information on the conditions necessary for curing cheese in packages and thus helped to pave the way for the present large-scale production of packaged natural rindless loaf cheese.

Canquillote

Canquillote, also called Fromagére and Tempéte, is a skim-milk cheese made in eastern France. The milk is curdled by souring, after which it is heated slowly and the whey removed. The curd is pressed and then broken up and allowed to ferment at a temperature of about 70° F. for about 2 or 3 days, with frequent stirring. After the characteristic flavor has developed, the curd is warmed and stirred. Water, salt, eggs, and butter are mixed with the curd, and it is pressed in molds of various shapes.

Cantal

Cantal, also known locally as Fourme, is a hard, rather yellow cheese with a piquant flavor and firm, close body. It has been made for centuries in the region of the Auvergne Mountains in the Department of Cantal, France. The cheeses are about 14 inches in diameter and usually weigh about 75 pounds, but may vary in weight from 40 to 120 pounds.

The method of manufacture has remained rather primitive. Rennet is added to cow's whole milk, either fresh or slightly ripened, at a temperature of 86° F., and about an hour later the curd is cut fine and the whey is drained off. The curd is pressed to remove as much whey as possible and then is ripened for 24 hours, which is considered very important. The curd then is broken up and 3 to 4 percent of salt is added. It is kneaded thoroughly, placed in hoops, and pressed for 36 to 48 hours; it is turned 2 or 3 times during the first 24 hours. The cheeses then are removed from the hoops, dried, and placed in the curing cellar. They are cured usually for 3 to 4 months but sometimes for as long as 6 months. While curing they are washed with salty water and turned frequently. The yield of cured cheese is about 10 percent of the weight of the milk.

Analysis: Moisture, 39.9 to 44.8 percent; fat, 28 to 34 percent; protein, 20.5 to 25 percent; and salt, 2 to 3.1 percent.

Caraway

Caraway cheese is a so-called Spiced cheese that contains caraway seed.

Carré

Carré or Carré Frais, known also as Double Créme Carré and Fromage Double Créme, is a small, rich French Cream cheese of the Neufchatel type. Usually it is about 2 inches square, less than an inch thick, and weighs less than 4 ounces. However, it is also made in a larger size—about 4½ to 5 inches in diameter, 1 to 1½ inches thick, and 10 to 12 ounces in weight—similar to Camembert and Coulommiers. It is made from a rich milk-and-cream mixture, which is coagulated with rennet. The curd is placed in a cloth to drain; when the whey has drained completely, the curd is salted, mixed thoroughly, and then put into molds to form the cheeses. It is eaten fresh.

Cheese made in a similar way, with considerable salt added to act as a preservative, is called Demisel.

Analysis: Fat in the solids, 60 percent; salt, 2 percent.

Carré de l'Est

Carré de l'Est is a Camembert-type cheese made in France from either raw or pasteurized cow's whole milk. In fact, the method used for making Camembert in some factories in the United States is like the French method for making Carré de l'Est rather than true Camembert. The chief difference in the making process is that the curd is cut before dipping in making Carré de l'Est, which accelerates early drainage of whey, and the cheese is said to be softer.

Analysis: Moisture, 50 to 55 percent; fat in the solids, 45 to 50 percent.

Casigiolu

Casigiolu, also called Panedda and Pera di vacca, is made in Sardinia. It is a plastic-curd cheese and is made by the same method used in making Caciocavallo.

Castelmagno

Castelmagno is a blue-mold, Gorgonzola-type cheese made in Italy.

Champoléon

Champoléon, also known as Queyras, is a hard cheese similar to Canquillote. It is made from skim milk in the Hautes-Alps region in France.

Chantelle

Chantelle is the trade name of a semisoft, ripened cheese that is made in Illinois from cow's fresh, whole milk. It is made and cured in a manner similar to Bel Paese. Micro-organisms growing on the surface of the cheese are partly responsible for the characteristic ripening. However, Chantelle is coated with red cheese wax when the surface ripening is at an earlier stage of development than in Bel Paese; it is cured at somewhat higher temperatures; and it does not soften so much in ripening. It may be shipped about 3 weeks after it is made, in which case it undergoes further ripening while it is being transported and marketed. It is somewhat similar to Trappist cheese; that is, it has a characteristic mild flavor, a rather open texture, and a smooth, waxy body suitable for slicing. It is round and flat, about 8 inches in diameter, and weighs about 5 pounds.

Analysis: Moisture, 48.9 percent; fat, 26.7 percent; fat in the solids, 52.5 percent; and salt, 2.4 percent.

Chaource

Chaource, which is named for the village of Chaource in the Department of Aube, France, is a soft, whole-milk cheese that resembles Camembert. It is about 4 inches in diameter and 3 inches thick.

Chaschol

Chaschol, or Chaschosis, is a hard cheese made in the Canton of Grisons in eastern Switzerland from cow's skim milk. It is from 17 to 20 inches in diameter, from 2¾ to 4 inches thick, and weighs from 22 to 45 pounds.

Cheddar

Cheddar cheese is named for the village of Cheddar in Somersetshire, England, where it was first made. The exact date of origin is not known, but it has been made since the latter part of the 16th century.

Colonial housewives made the first Cheddar cheese in America; and the first cheese factory in the United States was a Cheddar-cheese factory, established in 1851 by Jesse Williams, near Rome, Oneida County, N.Y.

Production increased rapidly with the establishment of the factory system. At present, nearly 1.3 billion pounds of Cheddar (and Cheddar-type) cheese is made in the United States each year, which is about 67 percent of all the cheese made. In fact, it is made and used so widely that it often is called American cheese, or American Cheddar cheese, and cheeses similar to Cheddar but made by a slightly modified process are called American-type cheeses.

In addition to being the name of the cheese, Cheddar is the name of a step in the manufacturing process and also the name of the most common style, which is about 14½ inches in diameter, 12 inches thick, and weighs between 70 and 78 pounds. Other styles are: Daisy, which is about 13¼ inches in diameter, slightly more than 4 inches thick, and weighs 21 to 23 pounds; Flat or Twin, which is 14½ inches in diameter, slightly more than 5 inches thick, and weighs 32 to 37 pounds; Longhorn, which is 6 inches in diameter, 13 inches long, and weighs 12 to 13 pounds; Young American, which is 7 inches in diameter, 7 inches thick, and weighs 11 to 12 pounds; Picnic or Junior Twin, which is 9¾ inches in diameter, 5 inches thick, and weighs 11 to 12 pounds; and rectangular blocks or prints, which usually are 14 inches long, 11 inches wide, 3¼ inches thick, and weigh 20 pounds. However, they are made in barrel sizes that weigh up to 600 pounds. The blocks are often cut into prints and packaged. In many stores, the 1-pound pr int is most popular.

Cheddar is a hard cheese, ranging in color from nearly white to yellow. It is made from sweet, whole cow's milk, either raw or pasteurized. (If it is made from partly skimmed or skim milk, it must be so labeled.)

Research has shown that pasteurizing the milk improves the quality of the cheese; and that cheese of uniformly good quality can be made from pasteurized milk by the so-called time-schedule method. Use of the time schedule systematizes the cheese-making operations and makes it possible to control the amount of acid that develops and the rate of its development during the making process. More than 90 percent of the Cheddar cheese made in the United States is now made from either heat-treated or pasteurized milk.

The pasteurized milk is cooled to the setting temperature (86° to 88° F.) and run into the cheese vat. Starter is added and the milk is agitated (stirred) usually for about an hour as the milk ripens (develops acidity). The amount of starter and the length of the ripening period are adjusted so that acid will develop at the desired rate during the making process. Then rennet and color are mixed in thoroughly and stirring is stopped. When the curd is sufficiently firm, usually about 30 minutes after setting, it is cut with curd knives into ¼-inch or ⅜-inch cubes. It is stirred continuously from cutting to dipping (draining the whey). About 15 minutes after cutting is completed, the curd is heated gradually (in about 30 minutes) to a temperature of about 100°.

About 2¼ hours after the rennet was added, the curd is pushed back from the gate end of the vat, and the whey is drained. Draining should be completed in 15 minutes; then a ditch is made down the middle of the vat and the curd is packed about 7 or 8 inches deep on each side. When it is firm enough to be turned without breaking it is cheddared or matted, that is, it is cut into slabs 5 or 6 inches wide which are turned frequently and, finally, when firm enough, piled in layers. Then the curd is run through a curd mill and spread evenly over the bottom of the vat and stirred. About 2½ to 3½ pounds of salt for each 1,000 pounds of milk is mixed in; and the curd is piled on either side of the vat while the whey drains.

When the salt has dissolved completely, the curd is transferred to cloth-lined metal hoops and pressed for about 30 minutes. Then the hoops are removed from the press, the cheeses are dressed, pressed again for 12 to 24 hours, and then removed from the hoops and dried for 3 or 4 days at a temperature of 50° to 60° F. before dipping in paraffin or wax.

When rindless cheese is made the press cloths are removed after pressing and, the cheese wrapped in a heat-sealing plastic film.

Cheeses are cured usually at a temperature between 40° and 50° F., but it may be as low as 35° or as high as 60°. They are cured for at least 60 days, usually for 3 to 6 months, and in some instances for as long as a year. Between 9½ and 11 pounds of cheese is obtained per 100 pounds of milk.

Analysis: Moisture, 37 to 38 percent (not more than 39 percent); fat, 32 percent (fat in the solids, not less than 50 percent); protein, 25 percent; and salt, 1.4 to 1.8 percent.

Cheshire

Cheshire, which is also called Chester, ranks with Cheddar as the oldest and most popular of English cheeses; both were well known as early as the reign of Queen Elizabeth I. Cheshire was first made in the village of Chester on the river Dee; it is said that it was molded originally in the form of the famous "Cheshire Cat."

Cheshire is a firm cheese, but it is more crumbly and not so compact as Cheddar. It is cylindrical in shape, like Cheddar; the cheeses are about 14 inches in diameter and usually between 50 and 70 pounds in weight. The curd may be nearly white but more often it is colored deep yellow with annatto.

There are three general types of Cheshire cheese: (1) Early-ripening, which is made from early spring until May and which usually is marketed locally; (2) medium-ripening, which is made in May and June and in the autumn and which is the most common type; and (3) late-ripening, which is made in summer, is cured more fully, and is sold in more distant markets. The three types differ slightly in the details of manufacture, such as the setting temperature, the rate of development of acidity, the cutting of the curd, and the cooking temperature. Following is a general description of the method of making medium-ripening Cheshire:

Evening and morning milk are mixed in a cheese vat, color usually is added, and the milk is set with lactic starter and rennet at a temperature of 86° F. After a coagulation period of an hour, the curd is stirred carefully and cut gradually to fine particles with a curd breaker or curd knives. In the next hour, part of the whey is removed and the curd settles in the remaining whey and then is stirred and warmed to 88°. In the next 30 or 40 minutes the curd settles again in the whey, after which the whey is drained off. Then the loosely matted curd is rolled up to one end of the vat and is pressed with a lightly weighted curd rack to hasten drainage, after which the curd is cut into rather large cubes and is spread on a curd cloth on a drain rack. After it has drained for 2 to 3 hours, during which time it is turned occasionally, it is cut into small cubes. It is kept warm while it continues to drain. Then it is put through a curd mill, salt is mixed in at the rate of 3 to 4 pounds per 100 pounds of curd, and it is placed in forms. There are holes in the sides of the forms through which skewers (pegs) are inserted to make holes in the cheese to facilitate the drainage of whey. The forms, which may be turned occasionally, are kept overnight in a cheese oven or other warm place at a temperature between 75° and 80°. The next morning the cheese is removed from the forms, dressed in cloth, and placed in a press. It is pressed for about 4 days and turned daily while in the press; the pressure is increased gradually until finally it reaches about 2,000 pounds. The cheese is removed from the press, scalded in hot water, and dressed in a bandage. It is cured on shelves in a curing room at a temperature of 60° to 65°.

The early-ripening type may be cured for as short a time as 3 weeks, the medium-ripening type is cured for about 2 months, and the late-ripening type is cured for at least 10 weeks and often for 8 to 10 months. The longer curing period improves the cheese.

The yield of cured cheese is 9 to 11 pounds per 100 pounds of whole milk.

Analysis: Moisture, 37 to 43 percent; fat, 28 to 31 percent; and salt, 2 to 2.5 percent.

Cheshire-Stilton

Cheshire-Stilton is an English cheese that combines the characteristics of the Cheshire and Stilton varieties. The method of making, size, and shape are similar to Cheshire, and mold peculiar to Stilton develops during curing. The mold is propagated by mixing a small portion of fresh curd every day with older curd in which the mold is growing well.

Chhana

Chhana is a sour-milk cheese made in Asia from cow's whole milk.

Chiavari

Chiavari is a sour-milk cheese made from cow's whole milk in the region of Chiavari, in the Province of Genoa, Italy.

Christalinna

Christalinna is a hard cheese made from cow's milk in the Canton of Grisons, Switzerland.

Christian IX

Christian IX is a Danish cheese that differs from Kuminost principally in size and shape. It is cylindrical and flat and weighs less than 35 pounds. It contains spices, such as caraway seed. The surface is coated with yellow paraffin or wax.

Analysis: At least 45 percent of fat in the solids.

Colby

Colby cheese, which is similar to Cheddar, may be made from either raw or pasteurized milk. It is made in the same way as Cheddar except that (as in Granular or Stirred-curd cheese) the curd is not matted and milled. However, in making Granular or Stirred-curd cheese, water is not added to the curd to cool it as is done in making Colby.

After the curd has been cut, stirred, and heated (as in the Cheddar process) the whey is drained to the level of the curd. Then the vat gate is closed and rather cool water (about 60° F.) is added with continuous stirring until the temperature of the curd has been reduced to about 80°. Stirring is continued for 10 to 20 minutes, then the curd is pushed to the sides of the vat and stirred enough to prevent matting as the whey drains. About an hour after the whey is drained, salt is added to the curd in 2 or 3 applications, each application being mixed thoroughly with the curd ( as in the Cheddar process). The curd is again pushed to the sides of the vat to drain while the salt is dissolving, which requires at least 20 minutes. Then the curd is hooped and pressed (as in the Cheddar process). The cheese is cured for a somewhat longer period than washed-curd cheese, but not so long as Cheddar. If it is made from raw milk, it must be cured for at least 60 days unless it is to be used for manufacturing.

Colby has a softer body and more open texture than Cheddar cheese, and it contains more moisture. For these reasons, it does not keep as well as Cheddar.

Analysis: Moisture, not more than 40 percent (usually 38 percent); fat in the solids, not less than 50 percent; and salt, 1.4 to 1.8 percent.

Cold-pack

Cold-pack cheese, known also as Club or Comminuted cheese and which is said to have originated in the United States, usually is an excellent product with a sharp cheese flavor. It is prepared by grinding very fine and mixing without heating one or more lots of the same or different varieties of cheese to which vinegar or lactic, citric, acetic, or phosphoric acid, water, salt, color, and spices may be added. The acid or vinegar should not reduce the pH of the cheese below 4.5.

It usually is made from carefully selected and well aged Cheddar cheese. Other Cheddar types (such as Washed-curd, Colby, or Granular), Roquefort (or Roquefort-type), Gorgonzola, Gruyere, and Limburger are also used in various combinations. Soft, unripened cheese (such as Cream, Neufchatel, and Cottage), and semisoft, spiced, part skim-milk, skim-milk, and hard, grating cheeses are not used. It is made from pasteurized-milk cheese or from cheese that has been held for at least 60 days at a temperature of not less than 35° F. It may be made from smoked cheese, or it may be smoked as a part of the making process.

The ground cheese mixture is packed in various types of containers, all of which are designed to keep out air. Some of the common types are: Transparent sausage-shaped casings; waxed cardboard cups; metal foil; transparent, flexible wrappers in cardboard cartons; and porcelain or glass jars or crocks with airtight covers. When marketed in the latter type of package, the cheese sometimes is called Potted cheese.

This type of product can be made at home; however, grinding and mixing the cheese changes its texture and the product is inclined to be "mealy." The housewife can make the product richer and increase its smoothness by adding butter. When made for sale commercially, however, adding the butter makes the product subject to the Federal law that restricts the manufacture and sale of "filled" cheese.

Analysis: Moisture, not more than the maximum legal limit for the variety of natural cheese from which it is made, or the average of the maximum legal limits if more than one variety is used, but in no case more than 42 percent (or 39 percent if made from Cheddar or Cheddar-type cheeses). Fat in the solids, not less than the minimum legal limit for the variety of natural cheese used, or the average of the minimum legal limits if more than one variety is used, but in no case less than 47 percent (or 45 percent if made from Swiss or Gruyére).

Cold-pack Cheese Food

Cold-pack cheese food is prepared by grinding very fine and mixing without heating one or more lots of the same or different varieties of cheese with one or more so-called optional dairy ingredients, to which may be added one or more of the following: An acidifying agent, water, salt, color, spices, and a sweetening agent.

Cold-pack cheese food is made from pasteurized-milk cheese or from cheese that has been held for at least 60 days at a temperature of not less than 35° F. Cheddar cheese and the Cheddar types (such as Washed-curd, Colby, and Granular), Roquefort (or Roquefort-type), Gorgonzola, Gruyere, and Limburger are used in various combinations. Soft, unripened cheese (such as Cream, Neufchatel, and Cottage), and semisoft, spiced, part skim-milk, skim-milk, and the hard, grating cheeses are not used. It may be made from smoked cheese, or it may be smoked as a part of the making process.

The optional dairy ingredients used are cream, milk, skim milk, cheese whey, or any of these from which part of the water has been removed; and albumin from cheese whey. They are pasteurized or are made from products that have been pasteurized.

The acidifying agents used are: Vinegar, lactic acid, citric acid, acetic acid, and phosphoric acid. The pH of the cheese food should not be reduced below 4.5.

The sweetening agents used are: Sugar, dextrose, corn sugar, corn sirup, corn-sirup solids, glucose sirup, glucose sirup solids, maltose, malt sirup, and hypdrolyzed lactose.

Fruits, vegetables, or meats may be added.

Analysis: Moisture, not more than 44 percent; fat, not less than 23 percent. If fruits, vegetables, or meats are added, the milk-fat content must be at least 22 percent.

Commission

Commission cheese is made in the Provinces of North Holland and Friesland, in the Netherlands. It is made from slightly skimmed milk in the same way as Edam and is the same shape, but each cheese weighs about 8 pounds, which is twice as much as the average Edam.

Analysis: Fat in the solids, at least 40 percent.

Comté

Comté cheese, made in eastern France, is similar to Gruyére. Each cheese weighs between 100 and 120 pounds.

Cooked

Cooked cheese (German, Kochkäse, literally Cook cheese) is so named because it is made by heating or "cooking" cheese curd. It is made not only in the United States but also in many foreign countries, and in the home as well as in the factory. The method of making differs somewhat in different countries and in different localities within a country, and the cheese is known by different local names. In the United States, the local names include Cup cheese and Pennsylvania Pot cheese; in northern Germany, it is called Topfen; and in Sardinia, Fresa. When properly made, Cooked cheese has an agreeable flavor and a smooth buttery consistency similar to Camembert.

The fresh cheese curd which is the basic ingredient of Cooked cheese is made from skim milk, or reconstituted concentrated skim milk or nonfat dry milk solids, or a mixture of any of these. The curd usually is prepared in the same way as ordinary Cottage-cheese curd and preferably should be rather dry.

The fresh curd is either stirred thoroughly or ground in a meat grinder, after which it is placed in a container, such as a crock or pot, covered, and kept warm until it ripens. It is stirred once or twice a day while it ripens. Usually it will ripen sufficiently in 3 or 4 days at a temperature of 80° to 85° F., in about 5 days at 75°, and in a week at 70°. The length of the ripening period depends on the softness and moisture content of the original curd, the temperature at which it is held, and the flavor desired in the finished cheese. The curd is ripened to a lesser extent if cheese with a mild flavor is desired.

Sometimes soda is added to the curd before it is cooked, at the rate of ¼ teaspoon of soda per pound of curd or 1 pound per 100 pounds of curd. The soda aids in softening the curd; when it is added the ripening period is shortened or may even be omitted.

When ripe the curd consists of two layers. On the top is a layer of particles of curd covered with a wrinkled, gelatinous, viscous mass of mold mycelia, beneath which is a layer of semiliquid curd with a characteristic strong flavor and odor. It may be slightly yellow throughout.

Sometimes flavoring materials, such as butter or cream, salt, caraway seed, egg, pimentos, or olives, are added either just before the curd is cooked or just before it is poured into the glasses.

The entire mass is heated to 180° F., with continual stirring, until it is melted and smooth and has a honey-like consistency when dropped from a ladle. This usually requires about 30 minutes. Skim milk or water may be added to replace the loss by evaporation. It is poured into clean molds, cups, or glasses, covered, and cooled. When cool, it is ready to eat. However, it will keep several days under refrigeration; the flavors blend and there is some ripening during the holding period.

Analysis: Not more than 80 percent of moisture (usually 70 to 75 percent).

Coon

Coon cheese is a Cheddar cheese that is cured by a special patented method. There are two characteristic features in the curing process: Cheese containing 36 to 40 percent of moisture is cured at a temperature of 55° to 70° F., and at a relative humidity as high as 95 percent; both temperature and humidity are higher than usual. High-quality cheese is required for these curing conditions. Mold grows readily on cheese when the temperature and relative humidity are high. Cheddar usually is cured at a temperature of 40° to 50° and at a relative humidity of 70 to 75 percent.

The surface of Coon cheese is colored very dark; the body is short and crumbly; and the flavor is very sharp and tangy. It is a favorite with some consumers who prefer fully cured, extremely sharp Cheddar cheese.

Analysis: Moisture, 36 percent; fat, 33 percent; and salt, 2 percent.

Cornhusker

Cornhusker cheese was introduced by the Nebraska Agricultural Experiment Station about 1940. It is similar to Cheddar and Colby, but has a softer body, contains more moisture, and takes less time to make. (The making process, up to the hooping stage, takes only about 2 hours.) Like Brick cheese, Cornhusker contains numerous mechanical openings.

Lactic starter is added to whole milk; the milk is coagulated firmly with rennet; and the curd is cut, heated, and stirred until it is firm. Then the whey is drained off, and the curd is washed with water, salted, hooped, and pressed. The pressed cheese is coated with two layers of wax. The cheese is cured in a moist room at a temperature of 65° F. for 1 to 2 months or at 45° for 6 to 12 months. The yield is 10.7 pounds per 100 pounds of milk containing 3.7 percent of fat.

Analysis: Moisture, 40 to 45 percent; and fat, 28 to 32 percent.

Cotherstone

Cotherstone, known also as Yorkshire-Stilton, is a blue-veined cheese made on a small scale in the valley of the Tees, in Yorkshire, in northern England, from cow's milk. It is similar to Stilton but is less well known than either Stilton or Wensleydale, other blue-veined cheeses made in England.

Analysis: Moisture, 38 percent; fat, 30 percent; protein, 24 percent; and salt, 2.5 percent.

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