Koppen
Koppen, also called Bauden, is a sour-milk cheese that is made by herders in their huts in the Sudetic Mountains between Bohemia and Silesia. The cheese, which is said to be made from goat's milk, has a sharp, pungent flavor. It is made in 2 shapes—1 conical, 3½ inches in diameter and height and about a pound in weight; the other cylindrical, about 5 inches in diameter and 2½ inches thick, and about 2 pounds in weight. The milk is coagulated at a temperature of 80° to 85° F., the whey is removed, and the curd is placed in forms. The cheeses are salted, and they are cured.
Analysis: Moisture, 54 to 56 percent; fat, 24 to 25 percent; and protein, 16 to 18 percent.
Kosher
Kosher cheese is made especially for Jewish consumers, to conform with Jewish dietary custom. Typically, it is made without animal rennet. Sometimes the milk is curdled by natural souring; sometimes a starter is added to the milk. Among the Kosher cheeses are soft cheeses, like Cream and Cottage cheese; Kosher Gouda; and a cheese that is made by the Limburger process but, unlike Limburger, is eaten fresh. Kosher cheese bears a label by which it can be identified.
Krutt
Krutt, or Kirgischerkäse, is made by the nomadic tribes of the middle Asiatic Steppes from the skim milk of cows, goats, ewes, or camels. The milk is coagulated by souring, salt is added, and the curd is hung up in a sack to drain, after which it is pressed moderately. The curd is then made into small balls, which are placed in the sun to dry.
Analysis: Moisture, 8 to 10 percent; fat, 1 to 1.5 percent; protein, 70 to 80 percent; and salt, 8 to 13 percent.
Kühbacher
Kuhbacher is a soft, ripened cheese made in upper Bavaria, Germany, from whole or partly skimmed cow's milk. It is cylindrical in shape—about 6 inches in diameter and 3 inches thick—and weighs about 2 pounds.
Kuminost
Kuminost, also called Kommenost, is a spiced cheese made in the Scandinavian countries from whole or partly skimmed cow's milk. There are several types, of which the best known is a skim-milk cheese made in numerous dairies in Denmark. Cumin and caraway seed are mixed with the curd before it is pressed. Except for its spiced flavor, it resembles Colby and Granular cheese. Kuminost is commonly made in loaves that weigh from 5 to 7 pounds.
Small quantities are imported into the United States from Norway and Sweden. Unless designated otherwise, and in all instances in the United States, the cheese contains at least 50 percent of fat in the solids. The cheese made from partly-skimmed milk contains at least 20 percent of fat in the solids.
Labneh
Labneh is a sour-milk cheese made in Syria. It is said that about one-third of the cheese made in Syria is Labneh cheese.
Laguiole
Laguiole, also called Guiole, is a hard cheese named for the village of Laguiole, in the Department of Aveyron, France. It resembles Cantal but is considered to be a better cheese. Whole or partly skimmed milk is set with rennet and about 30 minutes later the curd is cut. After ripening for about 24 hours it is put into hoops and pressed. It is cured for at least a month.
Analysis: Moisture, 34.5 percent; fat, 25.2 percent; protein, 28.7 percent; and ash, 5.4 percent.
Lancashire
Lancashire cheese is named for the county in England where it is made and where much of it is consumed. It is said to be the most popular cheese in some sections of England. It is similar in shape to Cheshire and Cheddar, but white in color, softer (the body is more salvy), moister, and has a stronger flavor. A single cheese may weigh between 40 and 50 pounds; however, a smaller size—about 7 inches in diameter and 10 inches thick, weighing about 12 pounds—is also made. The fully cured cheese is said to be especially suitable for toasting and for use in making Welsh rarebit.
Evening milk, which may be partly skimmed, is mixed with morning milk, and the mixture warmed to a temperature in the range of 82° to 88° F., depending on the season. Starter is added, and the milk may be ripened to an acidity of not more than 0.19 or 0.20 percent. Rennet is added and in about an hour, when the curd is firm, it is cut with ½-inch curd knives. After some further development of acidity, the whey is drained slowly. The curd is placed on a drainer or in a cloth and pressed lightly. When the curd has reached a certain stage of acid development, it is cut into 4-inch cubes, repressed lightly, and then recut into smaller cubes. This operation is repeated until the curd is sufficiently acid and firm and the cubes of curd are the size of kernels of corn. At this stage it is customary to put some of the curd aside for later use; curds of different ages, up to 3 days, and different stages of acidity may be mixed together to produce curd with a loose, friable body and texture. Salt is mixed in at the rate of 2 pounds per 100 pounds of curd, and the curd is placed in forms. Pressing is begun the next day; the cheese is pressed usually for 3 days, with a pressure of about 1,000 pounds, and it is dressed in cloth daily. Because the curd undergoes considerable soaking in the whey, the cheese is rather soft and lacks elasticity, and the flavor develops rapidly. The cheese is turned daily while it is in the curing room. Sometimes it is marketed after it has cured for a month at 60° F.; sometimes it is cured for several months at a lower temperature.
Analysis: Moisture, 43 to 45 percent; fat, 23 to 26 percent; and salt, 1.5 percent.
Langres
Langres is a soft cheese, similar to Livarot, that is made in northeastern France, mostly for local consumption. It is named for the village of Langres in the Department of Haute-Marne, where it is said to have been made since the time of the Merovingian kings. Fresh milk is set with rennet at a temperature of 90° to 95° F. After a coagulation period of several hours, the curd is put into cylindrical forms, 5 inches in diameter and 8 inches deep. When the cheeses are firm enough to hold their shape, they are removed from the forms, salted, and cured for 2 to 3 months. When ripe, the cheeses weigh between 1½ and 2 pounds.
Lapland
Lapland cheese, which is like a very hard Swiss, is made by the Laplanders from reindeer milk. The cheese has a very unusual shape; it is round and flat and is so formed that a cross-section resembles a dumbbell with angular rather than round ends.
Leather
Leather cheese, also known as Leder and as Holstein Dairy cheese, is made in the Province of Schleswig-Holstein, Germany, from cow's skim milk, with 5 to 10 percent of buttermilk added. It is very similar to Holstein skim-milk cheese.
The milk is warmed to a temperature of 95° to 100° F., and set with enough rennet to coagulate it in from 25 to 35 minutes. The curd is cut with a harp and stirred with a so-called Danish stirrer until the particles are the size of peas. It is then piled on one side of the vat or kettle for about 10 minutes, after which the whey is dipped off. The matted curd is cut with a knife into pieces the size of the hand, put into a wooden or tin bowl, pressed for half an hour, and then put through a curd mill. It is salted, put into a cloth, and again pressed for 12 hours. During this period the pressure is increased gradually, and the cheese is turned occasionally and put into a fresh, dry cloth. The cheese is then put into a salt bath, for 40 to 48 hours, after which it is transferred to the curing cellar where it is cured for about 4 months. During the curing period it is wiped with a dry cloth every day for about a week and thereafter twice a week. The cured cheese has small eyes. It is cylindrical, from 10 to 12 inches in diameter and from 4 to 6 inches thick, and weighs from 15 to 25 pounds.
Leicester
Leicester cheese, first made in Leicester County in the midlands of England, is a hard, mild cheese made from cow's whole milk. It is said that at one time Leicester was the finest cheese made in England, with the possible exception of Stilton. It resembles Cheddar, but has more color and a higher moisture content and ripens more rapidly; it is also similar to Derby and Cheshire. The cheeses are about 18 inches in diameter and 6 inches thick, and weigh about 40 pounds.
A mixture of evening and morning milk is colored with annatto. Lactic starter and rennet are added at a temperature of 80° to 84° F. in winter and 76° to 78° in summer. About 75 minutes later, when the curd is very firm, it is cut with a curd breaker or ⅜-inch curd knives. It is stirred carefully for a few minutes, then heated to a temperature of 92° in 45 minutes, stirred about 10 minutes longer, and then the whey is drained off. A curd rack is laid on the curd and weighted, to expel whey. The lightly pressed, matted curd then is cut into 6-inch blocks. The blocks of curd are piled on a rack in a vat and covered with a cloth to keep them from cooling. The curd is cut into smaller pieces and inverted at 20-minute intervals, until it acquires the desired acidity and firmness, when it is milled. Salt is added at the rate of about 2 pounds per 100 pounds of curd, and the curd is then transferred to forms and pressed. A few hours later, the cheese is removed from the forms, dressed in cloth, and repressed with gradually increasing pressure until a final pressure of about a ton is used. After the cheese has been in press a day or more, it is salted again with dry salt and then is transferred to the curing room where it is cured on shelves at a temperature of approximately 60°. It may be marketed after curing for about 2 months, but usually it is cured for 6 to 8 months and it may be cured for as long as a year.
Analysis: Moisture, 33 to 37 percent; fat, 29 to 30 percent; and salt, 1.5 to 2 percent.
Lescin
Lescin cheese is made in the Caucasus. Ewes are milked directly into a skin sack; rennet is added to the milk, the curd is broken up, and the whey is drained. The curd is put into forms and pressed lightly. When the cheese is removed from the press, it is wrapped in leaves and bound with grass ropes. After a week or two, it is unwrapped and salted with dry salt, and again wrapped in leaves for curing.
Leyden
Leyden, which is also known as Komijne Kaas, is a spiced cheese made in the Netherlands from partly skimmed cow's milk to which color is added. It is made both in factories and on farms.
The factory cheese is round and flat like Gouda, but sometimes it is made with sharp edges on one side. It is imported into the United States in different sizes, some cheeses weighing about 8 pounds and others as much as 16 to 20 pounds.
On the farms about 5 percent of buttermilk may be added to the milk, and it is set with rennet at a temperature of 82° to 86° F. About 30 minutes later the curd is cut with a harp, stirred, and warmed to about 92° by pouring in hot whey. The curd is dipped with a cloth and kneaded. Caraway and cumin seeds, and sometimes cloves, are added to a portion of the curd, and the curd is then put into cloth-lined hoops in three layers with the spiced curd as the middle layer. The cheese is pressed for about 3 hours, then it is redressed, inverted, and again pressed overnight. It may be salted with dry salt, or it may be immersed in a salting bath. It is cured in a cool, moist cellar. If the rind becomes too hard, it is washed with whey or salty water. It is said that milk may be rubbed on the surface occasionally, and that an alkaline solution containing litmus may be used to tint the surface blue.
Analysis: Moisture, 40.6 percent; fat, 13.5 percent; and protein, 37.8 percent.
Liederkranz
Liederkranz is the trade name of a soft, surface-ripened cheese that is made in Ohio from cow's whole milk. It is similar to a very mild Limburger in body, flavor, aroma, and type of ripening.
The milk is pasteurized, starter is added, and the milk is set with rennet at a temperature of about 86° F. The curd is cut with ½-inch curd knives, and when it has firmed sufficiently it is dipped into perforated metal forms. After the whey has drained off, the cheeses are removed from the forms, salted with dry salt, and then cured at a temperature of about 45° for 3 or 4 weeks. Surface-growing micro-organisms produce progressive ripening from the surface inward. The cheeses, which are rather perishable, are wrapped in tinfoil for marketing. They may be wrapped and shipped after curing for 12 to 15 days. They are about 2½ inches long, 1½ inches wide, and an inch thick, and they weigh 5 to 6 ounces.
Analysis: Moisture, 54 percent; fat, 24.2 percent (fat in the solids, more than 50 percent); protein, 16.8 percent; and ash, 3.9 percent.
Limburger
Limburger is a semisoft, surface-ripened cheese with a characteristic strong flavor and aroma. Usually it contains small irregular openings. The cheeses vary in size from a 3-inch cube that weighs less than a pound to a cheese 6 inches square and 3 inches thick that weighs about 2½ pounds.
Limburger was first made in the Province of Lüttich, Belgium, and is named for the town of Limburg, where originally much of it was marketed. It is made also in other parts of Europe, especially in Germany and Austria, and in the United States, especially in Wisconsin and New York. Other similar European cheeses are: Allgäuer Limburger and Stangen, made in Bavaria; Romadur and Hervé, made in Belgium; Schloss, made in Germany and Austria; Marienhofer and Tanzenberger, made in Carinthia, Austria; Backsteiner, made in Germany; and Void, made in France.
The method of making Limburger differs in different factories, but in general is as follows: Fresh milk, preferably whole milk, may be pasteurized, and it is warmed in a vat or kettle to a temperature usually between 86° and 92° F., but in some factories to as high as 96°. Lactic starter and rennet are added. Usually about 30 minutes after setting, but in some factories an hour later, the curd is cut into cubes about ½ inch in diameter. If the milk was set at the lower temperatures, the curd is stirred slowly as it is warmed to about 96°, and it is stirred gently at intervals as it acquires firmness. When the curd is sufficiently firm, most of the whey is drained off. In some factories, the curd is washed with weak salt brine to lower its acidity.
The curd is dipped into large rectangular metal or wooden forms that rest on a drain table. Sometimes the forms are divided into sections the size of the individual cheeses; sometimes the forms are not divided, and after the block of curd is removed from the forms, it is divided to make the individual cheeses. In some factories, a light-weight board is placed on the curd to furnish light pressure. The forms of curd are turned frequently.
When the cheeses are firm enough to retain their shape, they are removed from the forms and salted. In some factories, they are packed close together in dry salt on a salting table for at least a day, and they are turned frequently until they have absorbed salt on all surfaces; in other factories, they are rubbed with salt daily for about 3 days; and in still other factories, they are immersed in salt brine for a day at a temperature of 55° to 60° F.
After the cheeses are salted, they are cured on shelves at a temperature of 50° to 60° F. and a relative humidity of about 90 percent. According to some authorities, surface-ripening micro-organisms are responsible for the characteristic flavor and aroma. Yeasts, which reduce the acidity, predominate at first, and these are followed by Bacterium linens, which produces a characteristic reddish-yellow pigment.
The cheeses are placed close together on the shelves at first, and separated later. As the cheese cures, slime forms on the surface and the rind acquires a reddish-yellow color. In some factories, the cheeses are rubbed and turned every 2 or 3 days; in other factories, they are washed with salty water. The older cheeses are rubbed or washed before the younger ones; in this way, the younger ones are inoculated with the surface-ripening micro-organisms. After they have cured for 2 or 3 weeks, they are wrapped in parchment or waxed paper and an outer layer of metal foil, and curing is continued at a lower temperature. If the cheese was made from raw milk, it is cured for at least 60 days. From 11 to 13 pounds of cured cheese is obtained per 100 pounds of whole milk.
Analysis: Moisture, not more than 50 percent (usually 43 to 48 percent); fat, 26.5 to 29.5 percent (not less than 50 percent of the solids); protein, 20 to 24 percent; ash, 4.8 percent; and salt, 1.6 to 3.2 percent.
Liptauer
Liptauer (or Liptoi) is a soft, so-called pickled cheese that is named for the Province of Liptow in northern Hungary, where it is made. Cheese of this type, either identical or very similar, is made in numerous villages in the Carpathian mountain region of Czechoslovakia and Hungary. It is known in the different villages by different local names, among which are Landoch, Zips, Siebenburger, Neusohl, Altsohl, Klencz, and Bryndza (or Brynza). The German for Bryndza is Brinsen. Similar cheese made in Macedonia is called Ftinoporino.
Liptauer usually is made from ewe's milk, although in some localities as much as 10 percent of cow's milk is added. An unusual feature is that herdsmen prepare the curd daily, and the raw cheeses (Gomolya) are collected. weekly and taken to centralized factories (brynziar) where the cheese is made and cured.
The milk is warmed in a copper kettle over a fire to a temperature of 75° to 85° F. Rennet, prepared locally from the stomachs of suckling calves, lambs, or pigs, is added. After a coagulation period of 15 to 20 minutes, the curd is broken up, collected, and pressed into large lumps which are hung up in cloths to drain for a day or two. These lumps of drained curd, which are about 6 inches in diameter, are the Gomolya. They are collected weekly and taken to the factory where they are placed on boards or in large wooden casks and cured until they reach the desired stage of ripening, about 10 days. Then the rinds are removed, and the curd is cut into small pieces and salted. It is packed in a tub and ripened for several days. When it is soft and buttery, it is run through a roller mill and then packed in casks or packages of various sizes, for shipment. About 9½ pounds of Gomolya is obtained per 100 pounds of milk.
Analysis: Moisture, 46 to 49.2 percent; fat, 17.0 to 24.6 percent; protein, 21.0 to 28.2 percent; and salt, 1.9 percent.
Livarot
Livarot, which is a soft, cow's-milk cheese, is named for the village of Livarot, in the Department of Calvados, France, where the industry is centralized. The cheeses are about 6 inches in diameter and 1¾ inches thick. Livarot is very much like Camembert, which is made in the same region.
The milk, which is more or less skimmed, is set with rennet at a temperature of from 95° to 104° F. About 1½ or 2 hours later the curd is cut and placed on a rush mat or a cloth to drain for about 15 minutes, during which time it is crumbled fine. It is then put into tinned hoops about 6 inches in diameter and 6 inches deep. The cheeses are turned very frequently until they become firm, after which they are salted and then left on the draining board for 4 or 5 days. At this stage they sometimes are sold as white cheese.
More often the cheeses are placed in a well-ventilated room for 15 or 20 days, after which they are taken to the curing cellar where they are cured for 3 to 5 months. The curing cellar is not ventilated, in order to keep from dissipating the aromas that help to give the cheese a strong, piquant flavor. While curing, the cheeses are turned two or three times a week and occasionally they are wiped with a cloth that has been moistened with salty water. About 10 or 12 days after they are placed in the curing cellar they are wrapped in laiche leaves (Typha latifolia). After they are cured, they are colored with annatto and marketed.
Analysis: Moisture, 52 percent; fat, 15 percent; protein, 26 percent; and salt, 2.9 percent.
Loaf
Loaf cheese refers to the rectangular, loaf-like shape in which several cheeses are packaged and marketed, rather than to a specific variety. Before 1940, loaf cheese usually referred to process cheese. However, since about 1940, natural cheeses of various kinds, such as Brick, Cheddar, Cream, and Swiss, have also been packaged and marketed in loaf shape.
Lodigiano
Lodigiano, a Grana- or Parmesan-type cheese, is made in the vicinity of Lodi, Italy, from which it derives its name. It is similar to Lombardo; in fact, according to some authorities they are the same. The cheeses are 15 to 20 inches or more in diameter, 6½ to 9 inches thick, and weigh between 65 and 110 pounds. They are cylindrical, with convex faces. The surface of the cheese is colored dark and is oiled; and the interior is yellow. The cheese is sharp, fragrant, and sometimes slightly bitter. It is larger, contains less fat, has larger eyes, and ripens more slowly than Reggiano. It may be cured for as long as 3 or 4 years, and it is used for grating.
Analysis: Moisture, 25 to 32 percent; fat in the solids, 25 to 33 percent (in the United States, not less than 32 percent); and salt, 2.6 to 3.5 percent.
Lombardo
Lombardo, an Italian Grana- or Parmesan-type cheese, is similar to Lodigiano; according to some authorities they are the same. The cheeses are 12 to 16 inches in diameter, 6 to 8 inches thick, and weigh between 40 and 60 pounds. They are cylindrical and flat; in the spring and summer they are made with convex sides. The surface of the cheese may be colored, and it is oiled. The cheese has a sharp and aromatic flavor and granular texture. It contains a few small eyes, frequently unevenly distributed. It is cured for at least a year and usually for 1½ to 2 years, and the aged cheese is used for grating.
Analysis: Moisture, 27 to 32 percent at 1 year of age; 20 to 30 percent at 2 years; fat in the solids, 27 to 35 percent (in the United States, not less than 32 percent).
Lorraine
Lorraine, a small, sour-milk, hard cheese, is named for Lorraine, Germany, where it is made and where it is regarded as a delicacy. It is seasoned with pepper, salt, and pistachio nuts and is eaten while comparatively fresh. Each cheese weighs about 2 ounces.
Lüneberg
Lüneberg cheese is made in the small valleys between the mountains in the Province of Vorarlberg in western Austria. Cheesemaking was introduced into this region from Switzerland, and copper kettles and Swiss-type presses are used. The milk, which is colored with saffron, is warmed to a temperature of 87° to 90° F., and enough rennet is added to coagulate it in from 20 to 30 minutes. The curd is cut into pieces the size of hazelnuts and is heated, with stirring, to a temperature of 122°. It is then dipped into cloths which are put into wooden forms and pressed lightly. After 24 hours in the press, during which time the cheeses are turned and the cloths are changed occasionally, they are taken to the curing cellar. The cheeses are salted on the surface, and they are rubbed and washed occasionally while curing. When ripe, the cheese is said to be about midway in characteristics between Swiss and Limburger.
Maconnais
Maconnais is a goat's-milk cheese made in France. It is about 2 inches square and 1½ inches thick.
Macqueline
Macqueline is a soft cheese which is similar to Camembert but is said to be inferior. It is made from whole or partly skimmed milk in the Department of Oise, France, where Camembert is also made.
The milk is set with rennet at a temperature of about 80° F. After a coagulation period of about 5 hours, the curd is put into hoops. The hoops are removed 24 hours later, and the cheese is salted and then taken to the curing room for a period of 20 days or more. Each cheese is about 4 inches in diameter and 1¼ inches thick, and weighs about 4 ounces. One cheese can be made from 4½ pounds of milk.
Maile
Maile is a ewe's-milk cheese that is made in the Crimea. The curd is cooked and then drained in a cloth for 2 hours, after which it is salted, molded in forms, and put into salt brine in which it may be kept for as long as a year.
Maile Pener
Maile Pener (fat cheese) is made from ewe's milk in the Crimea. The milk is set at 100° F. with enough rennet to coagulate it in from 15 to 30 minutes. The curd is broken up and the whey is dipped off. Then the curd is put in a linen cloth to drain for from 2 to 6 hours. It is pressed with a board and salted in brine. It may be kept for as long as a year. When cured, the cheese has a crumbly, open texture and an agreeable flavor.
Mainauer
Mainauer cheese is named for an island in Lake Constance, a lake bordered by Germany, Switzerland, and Austria. The cheese is similar to Radolfzeller Cream cheese (made in this area, also) and to Münster (although it is somewhat firmer and cures more slowly than Münster). A single cheese weighs about 3 pounds.
Usually fresh whole milk, but sometimes partly skimmed milk, is heated in a kettle to a temperature of 86° to 90° F., and rennet is added. After a coagulation period of 40 to 45 minutes, the curd is cut into pieces about an inch in diameter, stirred, and then heated slowly to a temperature as high as 104°. After the curd settles, the whey is removed, and the curd is transferred to perforated forms to drain for about 12 hours during which time the forms of curd are inverted occasionally. Then the cheeses are removed from the forms and salted on the surface. They are cured for 4 to 5 months in much the same way as Münster. Between 11 and 12 pounds of cured cheese can be made from 100 pounds of whole milk.
Analysis: Fat in the solids, 40 percent.
Mainzer Hand
Mainzer Hand cheese (Mainzer Handkäse) is a sour-milk, small, round, cured cheese made in Germany. Curd from partly skimmed, naturally soured milk is kneaded by hand, pressed in small portions, dried, and then cured in a cool cellar (sometimes in kegs or jars) for as long as 6 to 8 weeks.
Analysis: Moisture, 53.74 percent; fat, 5.55 percent; and protein, 37.33 percent.
Malakoff
Malakoff is a soft, Neufchâtel-type cheese made in France. It is about 2 inches in diameter and ½ inch thick. It may be eaten either fresh or after curing.
Manteca
Manteca or Manteche "cheese," which is made in Italy, is in reality butter (usually whey butter) enclosed in a bag of plastic cheese curd. It is also known as butirro, burriello, burrino, and even burro (the Italian word for butter). The plastic-curd bag preserves the butter by protecting it from the air, thus preventing its deterioration even in a warm climate. The whey butter used in making Manteca usually is produced as a byproduct in the manufacture of Caciocavallo and Provolone.
Heated, plastic curd—which is prepared like curd for making Scamorzeis formed into a bag with walls about a half-inch thick. From ¼ to ½ pound of butter is put into the bag, the edges are closed, and the whole is immersed in cold water to solidify the butter which was melted by contact with the heated curd. The "cheese" is shaped like a small, rounded Caciocavallo. The outer surface of the bag usually is smoked, which gives it a yellow-brown color, but the butter within remains straw-colored.
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