Void
Void, a soft cheese similar to Pont l'Évêque and Limburger, is made in the Department of Meuse, France. The milk is coagulated with rennet at a relatively high temperature, the whey is removed as rapidly as possible, and the cheeses are washed frequently with salty water while curing. They usually are about 1½ inches thick and weigh about 1¼ pounds.
Vorarlberg Sour-milk
Vorarlberg Sour-milk cheese is a hard, cow's-milk cheese made from either whole or skim milk. Sour (clabbered) milk is added to sweet milk at a temperature of 77° F., and the mixture is then heated with stirring to the coagulating temperature of 95°; or the sour milk is added at the coagulating temperature. After the milk coagulates, the curd and whey are heated with stirring to a temperature of 105°; then the curd is dipped into forms. The curd remains in the forms for about 24 hours, during which time it is turned several times. When the cheeses are removed from the forms, salt is rubbed on the surface and they are held at a temperature of about 67°. Later, the cheeses are placed in a cask for 3 days and salt is sprinkled over the surface daily. Ripening is completed in a cool, moist cellar. The ripe cheese is greasy and has a very strong odor and flavor.
Analysis: Moisture, 33 to 57 percent; fat, 3 to 32 percent; and protein, 26 to 40 percent.
Warwickshire
Warwickshire is an English cheese very similar to Derby.
Analysis: Moisture, 33 percent; fat, 30 percent; protein, 29 percent; and salt, 2.8 percent.
Washed-curd
Washed-curd (or Soaked-curd) cheese is a semisoft to slightly firm cheese that is made in the same way as Cheddar except that the milled curd is washed with water before it is salted. "Soaked curd" usually indicates a longer washing period than "washed curd."
The curd is matted and milled as in making Cheddar. Then water is added, and the curd is stirred in the water for several minutes, or as long as half an hour, as it cools. Part of the whey is extracted, and water is absorbed by the curd during this process. Then the curd is drained, salted, and pressed (usually in daisy, flat, or print styles), as in the Cheddar process.
Washing the curd increases the moisture content of the cheese, reduces the lactose content and final acidity, decreases body firmness, and in-creases openness of texture. Washed-curd cheese does not keep as well as Cheddar. Usually it is cured for only 1 or 2 months. If it is made from raw milk it must be cured for at least 60 days unless it is to be used in manufacturing.
Analysis: Moisture, 40 percent (not more than 42 percent); fat in the solids, not less than 50 percent; and salt, 1.4 to 1.8 percent.
Weisslacker
Weisslacker, so named because of its white, smeary, lustrous surface, is a soft, ripened, cow's-milk cheese similar to Limburger and Backsteiner, that is made in Bavaria. In some localities it is well ripened and has a strong flavor and is called Bierkäse. The cheeses are 4 to 5 inches square and 3½ inches or more thick, and they weigh from 2⅔ to 3⅓ pounds.
Usually evening milk is skimmed and mixed with morning whole milk. Enough rennet is added at a temperature of 82° to 86° F. to form curd firm enough to cut in from 60 to 80 minutes. The curd is handled in the same way as in making Limburger except that in making Weisslacker the curd is cut into larger cubes and it is not drained so completely. It is customary to transfer the curd to large molds that are divided into sections to form the individual cheeses. As the curd settles, the molds are turned frequently. When the cheeses are removed from the molds, they are salted on the surface. They are cured at a temperature of about 53° and a high relative humidity; cool, moist conditions are essential for the proper development of surface smear. The cheeses are placed in contact with one another for several days after they are placed in the curing room and then they are separated. They are turned frequently. They are wrapped in parchment after about 3 months, and the flavor is well developed within 4 months. About 12 pounds of cheese is obtained from 100 pounds of milk containing 2.8 percent of fat.
Wensleydale
Wensleydale, named for the District of Wensleydale in Yorkshire, England, where it was first made, is a medium hard, blue-veined cheese made from cow's whole milk. The cheeses are similar to Stilton in size and shape; that is, they are cylindrical and weigh 10 to 12 pounds. How-ever, the rind does not have the melon-like network appearance of Stilton; instead, the sides may be somewhat corrugated because of the method of bandaging. The interior is white with blue veins distributed in and between the openings. The cheese has a firm and smooth body, rather than being waxy and crumbly, and is rich and creamy with a stronger flavor than Stilton. The method of making differs considerably on the farms and in the factories. In general it is as follows:
Evening milk is mixed with morning milk and warmed to a temperature of 84° to 90° F. Starter is added, the milk is ripened slightly, and it is set with rennet. After a coagulation period of 90 minutes, the curd is cut coarsely, stirred gently, and allowed to settle for 20 to 30 minutes. Then it is warmed to setting temperature, and stirring and settling are repeated. About 1½ hours after cutting, the whey is drained off. The curd for each cheese is tied tightly in a cloth and either pressed lightly in the vat or left on the draining rack for 20 to 30 minutes. Then the cloth is removed, and the curd is cut into cubes about 4 inches in diameter. Then it is replaced in the cloth and again pressed lightly. This process is repeated until the curd has matted sufficiently and developed the proper acidity; then it is broken into small pieces and salted. Sometimes the salt is added before the curd is put into the forms; sometimes the formed cheeses are immersed in salt brine for 3 or 4 days.
The curd is placed in cloth-lined forms and pressed. The cheeses are turned and redressed several times, and pressed with gradually increasing pressure until the final pressure is about 400 pounds. Then they are removed from the forms and taken to a cool, humid room to cure. They are kept clean and turned daily at first and then every 2 or 3 days. The curing period is about 6 months.
Another type of Wensleydale, which is made from curd that is cut fine and pressed lightly, has a higher moisture content and is marketed before the blue veining appears and before much flavor has developed. The cheeses are 3 to 4 inches in diameter and from 3 to 5 inches thick. This white-curd cheese is marketed sometimes before it is a month old for consumption when it is between 1 and 2 months old.
Analysis: Moisture, 33.5 to 34.7 percent; fat, 31.0 to 33.3 percent; protein, 27.2 percent; and salt, 1.7 to 2.0 percent.
Werder
Werder (or Elbinger) is a semisoft, cow's-milk cheese made on farms in West Prussia, where it is known also as Niederungskäse. The cheeses are shaped like Gouda—that is like a flattened sphere—but the individual cheeses differ greatly in size. They range from 10 to 20 inches in diameter and are 3 to 4 inches thick and weigh from 11 to 26 pounds. Like Tilsiter, Werder is ripened initially by white mold that grows on the surface and later by bacteria that produce a red tint on the surface. However, Werder, which has a mildly acid flavor, is softer and not so sharp as Tilsiter and contains more moisture.
In summer whole milk is used, but in winter the milk is partly skimmed. Cheese color is added. The milk is heated to a temperature of 86° to 90° F., and enough rennet is added so the curd will be firm enough to cut in about 45 minutes. After the curd is cut, it is stirred until the particles are about ½ inch in diameter. Then it is heated gradually, with stirring, to a temperature of 91° to 97°, and it is held at that temperature for about 15 minutes as stirring is continued, after which it is transferred to round, perforated, cloth-lined forms. A follower and weight are laid on the curd in each form, and the forms of curd are turned every few hours. After about 20 hours, the cheeses are removed from the forms. Salting is begun from 36 to 48 hours later, and several applications of salt are rubbed on the surface of the cheeses. After salting, the cheeses are dried. Then they are cured for a month at a temperature of about 60° and a relative humidity no higher than 85 percent; during this initial curing period, they are turned two or three times a week but they are not washed, and white mold grows on the surface. Then they are transferred to a curing room that is maintained at a temperature of 50° and a higher relative humidity. Here the bacteria that produce the red tint on the surface gradually develop over the white mold. The cheeses are fully ripened in about 10 weeks. They are wrapped in parchment and packed in boxes or casks that hold several cheeses. From 10 to 11 pounds of cured cheese is obtained from 100 pounds of milk.
West Friesian
West Friesian cheese is made from cow's skim milk. The milk is put in a copper kettle, and enough rennet is added to coagulate the curd in about an hour. The curd is broken up, placed in a wooden tub, and kneaded. After several hours, salt is added. The curd is pressed for about 3 hours, washed in hot water, wrapped in cloth, and pressed for an additional 12 hours. The cheese is ready to eat when it is about a week old.
Westphalia Sour-milk
Westphalia Sour-milk cheese is a Hand cheese named for Westphalia, Germany, where it is made. Sour milk is heated, with stirring, to a temperature of about 100° F.; the curd is placed in a cloth; salt, butter, and caraway seed or pepper are added. It is molded by hand, dried for a few hours, and ripened in a cool, moist cellar.
White
White cheese (Fromage Blanc) is a skim-milk cheese made in France in the summer. The milk is set with rennet at a temperature, of about 75° F. The curd usually is molded in cylindrical forms. Salt may or may not be added, and the cheese is eaten while it is fresh.
Wilstermarsch
Wilstermarsch, or Holsteiner Marsch, cheese is made from cow's milk in Schleswig-Holstein, Germany. It is similar to Tilsiter in many respects; however, it is made by a considerably different process and is cured for a shorter period. It has a mildy acid flavor and ripens rapidly; in fact, it is often marketed before it has reached the most desirable stage of ripeness.
There are five types of Wilstermarsch, as follows: (1) Rahm, which is made from fresh, whole milk with cream added; (2) Sussmilch, which is made from fresh, whole milk; (3) Zweizeitige, which is made from a mixture of evening skim milk and morning whole milk; (4) Dreizeitige, which is made from a mixture of 24-hour-old skim milk, 12-hour-old skim milk, and fresh whole milk; and (5) Herbst, which is made from a mixture of 36- to 48-hour-old skim milk, 24-hour-old skim milk, 12-hour-old skim milk, and fresh whole milk. Most of the cheese marketed is Zweizeitige; Dreizeitige and Herbst are consumed locally.
The milk is mixed in a copper kettle and curdled with rennet at a temperature of 82° to 86° F. After a coagulation period of 25 to 30 minutes, the curd is cut and stirred with a large scoop or ladle for 25 to 35 minutes. Some of the whey is removed, and the soft curd is transferred to a large curd-drying box that holds enough curd for 3 to 5 cheeses. The box is perforated and has a grating in the bottom and is lined with cloth. The curd is mixed and squeezed in the box until it is rather firm; then the grating is removed, 2 or 3 percent of salt is mixed with the curd, and it is kneaded by hand. The curd is transferred to cylindrical, perforated, cloth-lined forms similar to those used in making Tilsiter. Each form holds between 9 and 11 pounds of curd. The cheese is pressed heavily for 8 to 12 hours; then it is removed from the forms. It is soft at this stage and tends to flatten. If necessary to control flattening, it is bandaged. The cheese is turned daily. After 10 or 12 days, it is transferred to a dry room, and it may be enclosed in a bladder or membrane to protect the surface. The cheese is marketed when 3 to 4 weeks old. From 9½ to 12 pounds of cured cheese is obtained from 100 pounds of milk, depending on the fat content of the milk from which the cheese is made.
Analysis: Whole-milk cheese—moisture, 42.5 to 53.5 percent; fat, 18.9 to 25 percent. Skim-milk cheese—moisture, 59.0 percent; fat, 2.1 percent.
Wiltshire
Wiltshire, which was first made in western Wiltshire, England, is a hard, sweet-curd cheese similar to Derby. One style, which is about 9 inches in diameter and 9 inches thick, is known as Truckles.
Morning milk is added to partly skimmed evening milk, which has been kept cool overnight. The temperature of the milk is adjusted to 80° F., and rennet is added. An hour later the curd is cut with a curd breaker or curd knives. It is warmed, with gentle stirring, to 90°. When it is sufficiently firm, it is removed from the whey, pressed for about 20 minutes, ground in a curd mill, and salted at the rate of about 2¼ pounds of salt per 100 pounds of curd. The curd is pressed overnight in a so-called press vat, which is a wooden form with holes in the bottom to permit drainage of the whey. The following day the cheese is removed from the press, salted on the surface, dressed in cloth, and repressed. This process is repeated once or twice, after which the cheese is pressed continuously for a week. Then it is transferred to the curing room where it is placed on boards. If necessary, the cheeses are bandaged at first to aid in retaining their shape. They may be inverted during curing by means of a revolving rack. The cheese is cured in the same way as Derby cheese.
Analysis: Moisture, 34 to 40 percent; fat, 25 to 28.7 percent; and salt, 1.4 to 2 percent.
Withania
Withania cheese, made in the East Indies, is so named because the milk is coagulated with rennet obtained from withania berries. The cheese has a desirable flavor if it is ripened to the proper degree, but it will have an acrid flavor if it is ripened too long. Its texture is inferior to that of cheese made with rennet obtained from animals. However, cheese may be made with withania rennet when, for religious or other reasons, it is not desirable to use animal rennet.
Yoghurt
Yoghurt and Acidophilus cheeses are made with the special bacterial-starter cultures that are used in preparing Yoghurt and Acidophilus fermented milks. The starter used in making Yoghurt cheese contains Streptococcus thermophilus, Thermobacterium bulgaricum, and Th. joghurt, and that used in making Acidophilus cheese contains S. thermophilus and Th. acidophilum. The starter produces considerable acid in the cheese, which gives it a sharp flavor. Except for the use of the distinctive starters, these cheeses are made in much the same way as either the soft cheeses, such as Cream, Brie, Coulommiers, and Camembert, or the hard cheeses, such as Gouda. The milk is pasteurized to eliminate undesirable micro-organisms. Usually a soft, moist curd is prepared, molded in forms, and consumed while it is fresh. In some instances, the curd is pressed in the forms to make a firmer cheese. Sometimes the cheese is ripened with Camembert mold to make Yoghurt- or Acidophilus-Camembert cheese. If the cheese is ripened, the curd must be well drained.
These cheeses are made mostly in the Mediterranean countries, noted for their use of fermented milks. Yoghurt cheese was first made in Bulgaria from ewe's milk; it is made also in Quebec, Canada, from cow's milk.
In Bulgaria, about 3 percent of Yoghurt starter is added to the pasteurized milk, and it is coagulated with rennet at a temperature of 107° F. After a coagulation period of about 4 hours, the curd is cut, the whey is drained off, and the curd is molded in forms in much the same way as in making Cream cheese.
In Quebec, pasteurized whole milk is coagulated with a Yoghurt starter, the curd is drained in bags, salted, and worked, then packaged in cartons. The cheese has a sharply acid flavor, the consistency of fine-grained Cottage cheese, and good keeping quality for a very soft cheese.
Analysis: Bulgarian method—Moisture, 40 to 50 percent; fat, 25 to 33 percent; and protein, 17 to 21 percent. Quebec method—Moisture, 50 to 55 percent; fat, 23 to 28 percent; protein, 16 to 20 percent; lactose and its derivatives, 2.25 percent; ash, 1 to 1.5 percent; and salt (in the ash), 1 percent.
Ziegel
Ziegel cheese is made in Austria from cow's whole milk or whole milk with as much as 15 percent of cream added. The cheeses are about 3 by 2 by 2½ inches in size and weigh about half a pound.
The milk or milk-and-cream mixture is warmed to a temperature of 95° F., and enough rennet is added to coagulate it in about 30 minutes. The curd is broken up with a harp, loosened from the bottom of the vat, and then left undisturbed for about 30 minutes while the curd mats. The matted curd is cut into pieces and stirred gently for a considerable period. Then, for another 15 minutes, the curd is again left undisturbed while it settles. Then the whey is dipped off, and the curd is dipped into cheesecloth-lined forms, 24 inches long and 5 inches wide, each of which holds the curd obtained from 7½ to 8 gallons of milk. The forms of curd are turned frequently as the whey drains for a day. Then the curd is cut into smaller portions, each of which is placed in a small form that rests on a board. The forms of curd are turned and the board is replaced with a clean one daily for 8 days. Then the cheeses are removed from the forms, salt is rubbed on the surface, and they are washed in salty water and rubbed by hand every day for at least a month. They are ready for market in 2 months.
Ziger
Ziger and Schottenziger are the German names for whey (whey-protein) cheese, which is made by precipitating the albumin in cheese whey with heat and acid. In Italy, where this type of cheese was first made, and also in the United States, it is called Ricotta. It is known also as Albumin cheese.
Cheese of this type made in the Canton of Glarus, Switzerland, is called Hudelziger. Similar cheese made in the Canton of Grauburden, Switzerland, from goat's-milk cheese whey, is called Mascarpone. (In Italy, Mascarpone cheese is made by a similar method but from cream rather than from whey.) Gruau de Montagne is made from a mixture of Ziger and cream in the Savoy (southeastern France).
In the Province of Vorarlberg, Austria, whey cheese is made as follows: The albumin is removed from the hot, acid whey and cooled, drained in cheesecloth, and then pressed in a Swiss-cheese press for 24 hours, with gradually increasing pressure. Then it is salted in a salt bath, to which cider or vinegar is sometimes added.
Analysis: Moisture, 70 percent; fat, 4 percent; and protein, 20 percent.
Zomma
Zomma, made in Turkey, is a plastic-curd, Caciocavallo-type cheese that is very much like Katschkawalj. It is said to contain at least 30 percent of fat.
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